Measuring Mishaps

As an EasyCare customer service representative I spend much of my day assisting customers with boot sizing. There are many different factors that should be taken into account when fitting boots, especially the accuracy of the measurements. Fit is easily the most important factor in selecting boots and should not be taken lightly, a bad fit can cause a variety of issues such as rubbing, boot loss, and product failure. Accurate hoof measurements are the essential first step in the fitting process.

Believe it or not, getting accurate hoof measurements is not that easy! Ask my own mother, who for the record, agreed to "star" in my blog. I recently moved from Phoenix to Tucson to work at EasyCare but my horse Skippy is still located in Phoenix under the care of my very supportive mother. She took his measurements so that I could select the correct boot. 

My mom and Skippy.

So far she has sent me the following measurements:

  • April 16th: 127 mm x 146 mm  and 132 mm x 165 mm
    RED FLAG: a difference of 20-30 mm between length and width is highly unusual.
  • May 2nd: 1013 mm x 1015 mm and 1011.3 mm x 1014 mm
    RED FLAG: 1000 mm = 39.37 inches or more than 3 ft, this is a horse hoof not an elephant foot!
  • May 7th: 130 mm x 130 mm and 115 mm x 120 mm
  • June 13th: 110 mm x 130 mm and 115 mm x 110 mm 

What's wrong with these measurements? There are huge variations between the length and width on the first measurement, she probably included the heel bulbs. The second set of measurements, well those are just WAY too big to be horse feet. The last two sets of measurements she provided might be close. However, since there is no consistency, I am not convinced that any of these measurements are accurate. 

The point of my blog is not to poke fun at my mother, she's actually a very intelligent, educated horsewoman; my point is that getting accurate hoof measurements is not as easy as most people think and no one is perfect.

Helpful Measuring Tips:

  • Follow the EasyCare measurement guide.
    • Measure after a fresh trim.
    • Measure to the heel buttress line, not the heel bulbs.
    • If possible, use a metric ruler since millimeters are more precise than inches.
  • Do NOT trace.
  • Take pictures.
  • Watch for RED FLAGS such as unrealistic measurements and large variances between length and width.
  • Have someone else take measurements and compare them to your measurements.

If you have any questions or need help feel free to call EasyCare's customer service team at 1.800.447.8836.

Maggie Molever

Maggie Molever, EasyCare CSR

Customer Service

As one of the customer service representatives, I am happy to help get your horse into the right boots. I am a strong believer in the benefits of barefoot and am currently transitioning my own horse.


Easyboot Glove: Hoof DOs and DON'Ts

EasyCare loves all hooves equally but we do have a boot style called the Easyboot Glove that is very picky about what hooves can wear it. Below, I have listed the "DOs" that will increase your chance of success with the Easyboot Glove. I have also listed some "DON'Ts" for when the Easyboot Glove is not suitable. Don't worry, if your horse's hooves don't work with the Glove, EasyCare has numerous other boot styles. Just to prove that we don't discriminate, we also have some styles available in a wide version for the "fuller hooves"!


Easyboot Glove DOs:

  • use on a bare hoof
  • use on a hoof free of pathology
  • use on a hoof with a four week or shorter trim cycle (or maintenance rasping if on a longer trim cycle)

Easyboot Glove DON'Ts:

  • use on a hoof with high heels
  • use on a hoof with flare
  • use on a hoof with long toes
  • use on a hoof with a trim cycle longer than four weeks

Since the Glove is measured for in millimeters, it needs to fit the hoof snugly (like a Glove). If you are interested in this boot style, we strongly recommend ordering a Fit Kit. The cost to use a kit is only $12.00 and it is well worth every penny. The kit will help you determine the perfect fit without having to pay to return boots that are not the correct size. If you have any questions regarding our products or sizing please feel free to contact our customer service department at 800.447.8836.

Shari Murray


Customer Service

If you call the customer service help desk, you’ll probably get me on the phone! I process repairs, returns, credits and exchanges that come into EasyCare.


Gloves and Pads? It Can Work!

I have a sensitive princess mare. Do you know the type? Hates to get wet, doesn't like to get dirty, is very expressive about what she thinks her minions (humans) should or should not being doing, etc. And she loves shoes (aka hoof boots)...lots of them. Her collection of Easyboots is vast and takes up two gear bags! She has winter mud boots (Easyboot Gloves with studs), summer boots (Gloves without studs), gravel/rock running boots (Easyboot Bares converted to the Epic buckle system with dome pads), black boots, red boots, Back Country boots, all in multiple sizes depending on if her feet are wet and bigger/dry and smaller, trimmed/untrimmed, etc. At least she is not into purses, right? She also shows her sensitive side in that she loves her padded boots, especially if the footing is not 100% ideal and may have some rock or gravel in it. She does ok in her Gloves, but really moves so much bigger and carefree when she has her padded Bares on.

I have always had the thought in the back of my mind, that I would like to have more frog stimulation in boots. The flat surface inside can mean not enough frog stimulation, unless they are really big, healthy, dropped down frogs. Sadly, many of our horses do not have awesome frogs, and the only way to get them is by stimulating them with lots of movement/ground contact. The best way to get this, is to ride in padded boots, especially dome pads if the horse tolerates them (I have met a few with thin soles, or painful frogs, that find dome pads to be too much pressure). I love the simplicity of the Glove though, and the fact that she never interferes in them which she does occasionally with her hinds when wearing Bares. I always wondered if I could just put dome pads in the Gloves. I decided a new one was out of the question since it took up half the space in the boot, and I highly doubted they would stay on. So then I thought about taking some older, already squashed down ones out of my current padded boots - that looked much better. Then the testing began. First I went on a trail ride, mostly on flatter terrain with decent footing and mostly walking with some light trotting. I applied Mueller athletic tape to the hooves as I suspected the boots would not stay on otherwise.

That experiment was a success, with the boots staying on and in place (no twisting). I did this a few more times, adding a bit more trotting, some cantering, and a little more distance. Then I decided to them on a 35 mile training ride in Redwood National Park. This involved a good amount of elevation change, mud, creek crossings, downed branches, and a decent amount of trotting and a little cantering. Of course when we were all tacked up and ready to go, I realized I had forgotten to tape the boots - I decided it would be a good experiment to see what happens. So I stuffed a role of tape into my saddle pack and off we went. Sure enough, once up the fist two miles and a long, really big hill, we stopped for an evaluation at a nice, grassy spot. Boot fail - all four had twisted.

Front (left) and hind (right), you can see the gaps left by the twisting.

So out came the tape, and the boots went back on (after much ado about finding the right rock to smack them on with). Then off we went again to continue our ride. Every now and then I would check them, but they did not budge. I had quite a good time riding the beautiful redwoods that day, with my friend Jo on her horse Beetle. Beetle also uses Gloves or Epics with pads, and has been developing much nicer frogs.


Eowyn taking a snack break.

It sometimes felt like a fairy world...tree blossom petals all over and little wild flowers blooming all around.

The majestic Redwoods towering above us.

The traditional picture spot, a burnt out redwood tree is big enough for horse and rider!

One of my favorite trees in the park. Its roots grew over an old redwood stump.

After eight hours on the trail, and taping them up after the first fail, the boots worked great all day. In fact, I almost had to break out the screw driver to pop them off. This has been a reoccurring theme when I tape Eow's Gloves. My next experiment (without pads) is to tape only with power straps and no gaiters...

I love how the dome pads take on the shape of the bottom of the foot. It fills in all the hollow spaces, moves away from the loaded ones, and supports everything, much like how dirt would naturally fill in the hoof. Compare it to one of the 'dirt pads' I often find in Eow's paddock.

If you'd like to check out the "Fairy Woods" too, our local endurance club, Redwood Empire Endurance Riders, host a ride there every year. This year we will be having it in September. Come on out and join us!

Natalie Herman

Ouch my feet hurt! Easyboot Rx to the Rescue

In my practice, as a hoof care practitioner, I trim foundered and laminitic horses, ponies and donkeys. Unfortunately this spring I have had quite a few founder and laminitis cases. Part of the rehabilitation process is making these equine as comfortable as possible, so they will move and heal. The Easyboot Rx is often a key element in the healing process.

This is Little Girl, a 15 year old registered Rocky Mountain mare, she had just arrived at her new home. When I first met her she was laying in a dark stall, bedded down deep with shavings, suffering from the first of two painful abscess and active founder. This was a week after I first trimmed her, wearing her Easyboot Rxs. You can see she isn't 100% comfortable, as she is holding that front right hoof out, however she is more comfortable with her boots than without. In this photo she was in the process of brewing her second huge abscess, this time in her right front hoof.

Because of the painful abscess, Little Girls right front hoof was soaked every day in Epsom salts, and her hooves were then packed with Epsom salt poultice, her Easyboot Rxs were then reapplied. After three days of treatments she finally blew that painful abscess.

Radiographs were taken of her fronts. Because of her painful abscess, she was unable to fully weight her right front, as you can see in the radiograph.

Below are before and after lateral views of her front feet, two months into rehabilitation and after four or five trims. After every trim her Easyboot Rx's are reapplied to protect her hooves and encourage her to move.

Right front before (left) and after (right).

Left front before (left) and after (right).

This is Little Girl after her most recent trim. She is comfortable when wearing her Easyboot Rxs and well on her way to a full recovery. Every day Little Girl has her boots removed, powdered heavily with Gold Bond, or Odor Eaters powder, given a few moments to air her feet and have them cleaned/inspected, then her boots are reapplied.

Some tips for founder rehabilitation:

  • Diet - Remove the cause of the founder, often it is sugar/starch overload (grass pasture). In Little Girls case it was excessive grain/alfalfa (also sugar/starch overload). Equines need a grass based diet balanced with minerals and vitamins. Slow feeder (small hole) hay nets are very useful, especially when horses are in dry lots. They slow down the horse, keep the horse busy and full, and keep food in the stomach which can help prevent ulcers. They also save you money on your feed bill, as little hay is wasted. 
  • Trimming - Frequent (2-4 weeks) balanced trims are ideal (lower heels, back up the toes).
  • Boots - It is vital to provide protection and sole relief. Easyboot Rxs are the perfect solution for founder and laminitis rehabilitation. They are not made for riding, instead for protection and an aid in movement. 
  • Movement - Movement is a vital part of the healing process. Little Girl had a paddock mate to encourage her to move. Hand walking, in Easyboot Rx's, is also very helpful. 

To follow Little Girls rehabilitation process you can follow her album here on Facebook.

Amy Allen, Amy Allen Horsemanship

The Best Soaked Hooves You've Ever Seen or Your Money Back!

Are you tired of trying to trim those rock hard and dry hooves? Your knife just kind of scrapes over the surface and nothing happens? Your rasp feels dull even though it's new? You don't like having a mud hole and do not have a place to tie a horse so their hooves can soak first? I have a solution that may help you but the title lied  - no one paid me so you don't get any money back but you get the idea...

First you need four old Easyboots (a perfect reason to not throw well used boots away). If they are boots that are a size too big that is even better. I happen to be using Easyboot Gloves here but you can use other boot types as well.

Next pour water into the boot. You may not think much actually goes in the boot but it does and runs down under the hoof. You can add water every so often while you are doing other things and just allow the hooves to soak for at least 30 minutes (an hour is better). 

After soaking and removal of the boot you now have one soggy and softened hoof. 

Now I can actually scrape out some dead sole and clean up the frog which was too hard to do before soaking.

Diamond thinks it's a great idea as the hoof passes her inspection. I hope you think it's a great idea too!

Karen Bumgarner, Zapped Ranch

Tevis 2013: Young Rider Program & Gluing Hoof Boots For You

Young Riders

EasyCare has enhanced its participation at the Western States Trail Ride for 2013. Easyboot is the official hoof boot of Tevis 2013, and EasyCare is proud to sponsor the 2013 Junior Rider Program.

EasyCare will pay the entry fee for up to ten junior riders who sign up for Tevis. If you're between the ages of 13 and 18 and you've been dreaming of riding Tevis, EasyCare has you covered.

Garrett and Alyxx Ford with The Fury at the presentation of the Tevis Cup. Photo by Lynne Glazer.

Gluing Hoof Boots

If you're riding Tevis and you would like complimentary gluing or boot fitting support from an EasyCare representative, our gluing schedule for ride week is listed below. Easyboot Glue-Ons cleaned up at Tevis in 2012:

  1. Six of the top ten horses at Tevis used Easyboots.
  2. 34% of the finishing horses were in Easyboots.The Tevis Cup (first place) was won by Garrett Ford and The Fury in a completion time of 14:50.
  3. The Haggin Cup (Best Condition) was won by Rusty Toth and Stoner in a completion time of 15:05.
  4. The first four horses in the top ten were in Easyboots.
  5. Easybooted horses boasted a 69% completion rate, compared to a 41% non-Easybooted horse completion rate.
  6. This is the second year in a row for the first place Tevis horse to be wearing Easyboots.
  7. This is the third year in a row for the Haggin Cup horse to be wearing Easyboots.
  8. 23% of the starting horses were in Easyboots.

To book an appointment, please call any of our Customer Service Representatives at 1-800-447-8836.

Stoner and Rusty Toth showing for Haggin Cup.

Please note the following five items:

  1. Location - there are two different locations, depending on the day. When setting up your appointment, please be sure clarify the location with the CSR.
  2. There will be no gluing whatsoever on Friday because it is too close to the race day, and the risk of losing boots increases significantly.
  3. EasyCare representatives will provide the gluing services at no cost. However, each rider is required to provide the boots and materials needed (unused Easyboot Glue-On shells; 1 tube of Adhere; Adhere Tips; 1 tube of Sikaflex).
  4. Please bring a horse that has been trimmed within the previous five days. Any horses that need a trim will be subject to trimming fees assessed by a professional hoof care practitioner.
  5. We request that all riders should have successfully completed at least one race in Easyboot Glue-Ons before attempting Tevis in Glue-Ons.

Tevis 2013 Gluing Schedule

Tuesday, July 16, 2013
Auburn Fairgrounds 1 PM - 3 PM

Wednesday, July, 17 2013
Auburn Fairgrounds 12 PM - 3 PM

Thursday, July 18, 2013
Robie Park 9:30 AM - 12:30 PM

Friday, July 19, 2013
No gluing

To book an appointment, please call any of our Customer Service Representatives at 1-800-447-8836.
Keep up the bootlegging.

Kevin Myers


Director of Marketing

I am responsible for the marketing and branding of the EasyCare product line. I believe there is a great deal to be gained from the strategy of using booted protection for horses, no matter what the job you have for your equine partner.


Hoof Photographs Daisy Haven Farm Style

Whether in a publication, on social media or on someone's cell phone, we often need to be a sleuth when trying to figure out what's going on with a picture of a horse's hoof. Taking good photos of horses' feet can be quite frustrating and even after a lot of work may not show what you're hoping to demonstrate. 

Here at Daisy Haven Farm, Inc. we have a serious commitment to documentation of our work. We have found taking digital photographs to be an invaluable tool in tracking our work and being objective in our care for the horse. Over the past ten years we have been photo documenting horses' feet with great detail. Our database has over 200,000 images of horses' feet over time, with many of the same feet documented over six to ten years. You can learn a lot about the effect of the trim, environment, diet, stress, illness etc. on the foot over time through this kind of documentation.  


The photos above (taken by me) have harsh shadows, inconsistent angles, the feet are dirty and the ground surface obscures the foot. These are just a few of the examples of what can make your images difficult for others to interpret and prevent you from having consistent comparable quality. I'd like to share with you some of the techniques I've developed to get consistent and accurate photographs of horses' feet, with a specific focus on quality of image, consistency of angle and elimination of distracting components.  

1) The Camera
I started out with inexpensive cameras and over the years have upgraded until now I use an entry level DSLR camera. The ability to get high speed, high quality images is worth the money. I am currently working with an 18 mega pixel Cannon Rebel T3i with a general purpose 18-55mm lens which I absolutely love. The camera is fast, smart and can even get good quality images in low light situations in many of the barns we work in. An added benefit is the screen comes out and turns at multiple angles to ensure good alignment of camera and subject, and has a grid feature which helps with 3-dimensional positioning. On this camera I mostly use the P (Programmed Automatic) setting, but most cameras do quite well with the Macro setting. I prefer to use flash for my photos.

2) Your Workspace
Setting up your workspace and subject matter is critical to success. We are often tempted to snap images of feet on the fly, but in the end it's worth the preparation time to ensure clear images. Select a workspace that has neutral lighting. Harsh sun and back lit aisles create difficult photographing situations. They can be managed and still get good images, but it makes things much more difficult. Your workspace has to be level, clean and dry. Wet surfaces, grass, many types of gravel, soft mats, all interfere with your ability to see the foot clearly. Make sure to sweep the area immediately before taking photos as random pieces of debris distract from the foot. While a nice cement aisle is always easy, a wide variety of surfaces will work including mats in a run-in or plywood on top of a gravel floor.

3) Preparing the Subject
It is also critical to make sure your foot and leg is thoroughly cleaned, top and bottom, brushed and dry. We will often use a wire brush if feet are really packed with dirt and debris.  

Horses with feathers and extra hair can be problematic due to obscuring the coronary band and hoof capsule. Feathers can be wrapped up and extra hair can often be clipped for ease of assessment of the hoof capsule in the image.

How the horse stands is important in assessing to the accuracy of the photographs. The horse should be standing as close to square as possible, and with cannon bones perpendicular to the ground. Ideally your pictures will be taken with the horse weighing all four legs evenly in the best position the horse can manage. Try to avoid taking pictures of hind legs when they are underneath themselves as it will skew your perspective on the hoof/pastern axis.

4) Minimizing Distraction
Another important component I like to use is a background in your images. A background of solid color placed behind the leg can prevent the foot from getting lost in the rest of the image. The background should be neutral in color. For example, a hot pink background with polka dots may not be the best choice to keep your image easy to look at!  We use a colored foam board cut to size. Make sure the background is parallel to the limb, and the bottom edge of the board is in line with the ground plane of the foot. Also, if you are using a background handler, please keep them safe. Make sure the horse is ok with the background around his legs, and that your background holder does not stand in a kick zone. 

5) Accuracy of Angle
Our standard procedure is to take pictures at "mouse-eye view", in other words, ground level. Feet look totally different when viewed from ground level vs. standing and looking down.  

It is also very common to see photographs of horses feet that are oblique to the limb. A photograph taken at an oblique angle can really distort the appearance of the foot!  The key to getting consistent angle on your images is to position yourself, the horse's leg, and the background all in alignment with one another 3-dimensionally.  

For accuracy of describing how I'm aligning my camera, it's important to define the "planes" of the camera. The yellow line is the plane of the face of the lens. This plane will most often be parallel to the subject. I refer to this as the plane of the lens. The pink line is the midline of the camera body. This plane will most often be perpendicular to your subject. I refer to this plane as the midline of the camera.  

To get accurate repeatable images that can you can reliably compare over time, let alone to images of other feet, a consistent repeatable procedure for photographing the foot must be followed.

Here are the key points in lining up the camera and subject to get accuracy of angle:

  • Mouse eye view means I usually have the camera 1/2" to 1" off the ground with the camera parallel to the ground.
  • The midline of the camera is aimed at the center of rotation of the hoof capsule and perpendicular to the subject.
  • The plane of the lens, the horse's limb, and the background are all parallel to each other.
  • In the screen, line up the bottom of the grid with the ground plane of the foot. I set the focus area of the camera on the screen at the approximate center of rotation of the hoof capsule.

In the pictures below, you can see my position and the relative position of the blue background and horse's leg. You can also see what I am viewing in the camera screen.

I've also included the the finished image so you can see the result of the photo taken this way.

When taking images of the sole, be sure to keep the camera lens parallel to the sole. Point the lens at the widest part of the foot on the midline of the frog.  

6) Final Image Preparation
Finishing photos after the images are captured is equally as important to the final product. There are many different computer software packages available that will allow you to process and often store your images in an organized way. Regardless of the software you chose to use, cropping your image, rotating, and some lightening or darkening may be necessary.

Below is an example of the type of photo documentation captured. By taking these images over time, you can clearly see how the foot progresses. Following these specific photograph documentation procedures has greatly facilitated communication between ourselves, the horse owner, the veterinarian and other hoof professionals. We can also assess, objectively, what is going on with the foot over time and make better decisions for the horse.

To see case studies produced by these photo documentation procedures and more information on our work, please see our website at:

Boots for the Carriage Horse

Lencho Griego, owner of G and F Carriages in Pueblo, Colorado, has been using the EasyCare hoof boots on his Percherons with success. His business provides carriage rides for various events such as weddings, birthday parties, graduations, anniversaries, quinceresas, funerals etc. He has two Percherons that are his pride and joy and really draw a crowd because of their beauty and awesome stature. When all decked out with the harnesses and carriage, they are a sight to behold!

Big Ben is ready to go to work.

Big Ben's hooves fit nicely in size 5 Easyboots and he gets along great in them on pavement. No slipping while transporting clients to and from their destinations. The installation is a breeze for Lencho and Big Ben's hooves are protected from the concussion of the hard pavement he has to travel on. The striking presentation of the carriage, provides an exquisite way to travel to your wedding or anniversary party. It reminds me of a scene from a Cinderella movie.

Big Ben posing for the camera.

Easyboot Epics and Orginal Easyboots work really well for the larger sized hooves out there. Ease of installation and increased durability make these boots the boot of choice for the large, draft/draft cross type breeds. Whether the horse is working, used for trail riding or just being transported, our Easyboot line will give your horse the needed comfort and hoof coverage needed.   

We even have several of the larger sizes still in our Bargain Bin location on our website at a substantial savings. The Bargain Bin has various sizes that are new, discontinued models at 50% off regular pricing. Check it out to see if we have the size(s) you need. For great assistance with your booting needs, just give us a call 800-447-8836 and we will get you taken care of.

Nancy Fredrick

Easycare President-ceo-garrett-ford

EasyCare Customer Care

I have been on the EasyCare team since 2001 and have first hand product knowledge as my horses are barefoot, booted and I do the trimming. I can assist you with all of your booting needs. .



Alternative Uses of a Horseshoe Nail

You might never have an interest in nailing a horse shoe on a hoof but if you are a natural hoof care provider, rider, or horse owner, the horseshoe nail can still serve you very well.

Here are five alternative uses for horseshoe nails:

1. Explore the depth and severity of white line separation.

Horseshoe nails are very pointed, no other nail or hoof pick is thin enough to be inserted into the white line to clean out decayed tissue, debris, small embedded pebbles and prepare it for treatment. Simply insert the nail and scrape the separated white line clean, then apply treatment solution. The same applies for cleaning out collateral grooves.


2. Explore the frog for thrush.

Not every crack in the frog means thrush. With a horseshoe nail it is easy to find out and check the frog for sensitivity, decay and bacterial invasion.


3. Estimate the thickness of the sole by measuring the depth of the collateral grooves. With the pointed end of the nail it is easy to get to the bottom of the groove. Unless you use a Precision Hoof pick, which has a pointed end and a reading scale, a horseshoe nail is second best. Lay your rasp over the level and flat trimmed heels, place the nail to the bottom of the groove and use your fingernail or a marker to fixate the spot where it hits the rasp. Then pull the nail out and measure the distance.

The distance below, marked by the fingernail, is 2 cm, about 3/4 of an inch.


4. Clear the channels in the Vettec Adhere tube. Sometimes, when tubes have already been used previously, little plugs can form and obstruct the openings. This is really bad news if a mixing tip is already attached and an uneven flow of glue comes out. A nail tip can clean it out quickly and easily.


5. Clear debris from a screw. Need to replace a gaiter on your Easyboot Glove? Tighten a screw on your gaiter or the power strap? ( I highly recommend doing this after each ride using Gloves). After a ride with Easyboot Gloves, most screw heads are filled with debris. Somehow the sand and grit forms such a hard fill that your phillips screwdriver cannot get a bite. A horseshoe nail allow you to clean the slots out with minimal effort.

This screw slot is filled tightly with debris.

Can you think of any additional usages of a horseshoe nail? Please share them with us.


Your Bootmeister

Christoph Schork

Global Endurance Training Center

Not Just Back Country

I'll admit it, when I first saw the Easyboot Glove Back Country I was pretty skeptical. Before my undying love and devotion to the Easyboot Glove developed, I had used another brand of hoof boots. Post Glove infatuation I was adamant that I'd never use or consider a boot other than my beloved Gloves. The low profile, their light weight, the ease of use, staying power, what's not to love? Being fastidious about my horses' very regular trim schedule further increased my success with the Gloves and I didn't really consider a situation where they wouldn't be optimal for my horses.

Glove Back Country on a sidewalk?

Enter Dazl, who is undergoing the first year of transition to a functional bare hoof after a bout of laminitis prior to a serious environment and lifestyle change. Saying her feet are changing is an understatement and I've found the option of having a boot that offers a more forgiving fit to be helpful during this period of transition. I was worried the Back Country would be too bulky and would cause interference. They don't. I was worried they wouldn't fit well and might come off while using a larger size. They don't. I was worried the different gaiter would cause rubs. Not so.

While definitely bulkier than the regular Glove, the boot portion is still form-fitting and the external gaiter is surprisingly slim as well. The gaiter with built-in, heavy-duty power strap allows one to use a larger size than the appropriate size Glove. This is very helpful when growing out a flare or the bowed out portion of a hoof wall that is growing in much tighter. They don't twist as a too-big Glove might and I haven't lost one yet! The rounded edge of the gaiter hasn't caused any rubs and they are very easy to put on and take off. So far, the velcro gaiter is just as strong after a few months of use as they were when brand-new. During this period of change in size, shape and angle of Dazl's feet, the Back Country are just the ticket for continuing on with our training while developing a better hoof. In the meantime, I can focus on taking in the view.