Traditions, they say, die hard in the West. Contrary to popular belief, back in the 1800's men weren't the only ones shooting whiskey and packing a Peacemaker. Women were often going toe to toe with the best of cowboys. These women broke tradition and blazed their own trail. They knew no boundaries.
In that same spirit, Kimberly Knight of Date Creek Ranch, Wickenburg, AZ is not afraid to buck tradition. Date Creek is the continuation of over 130 years of family ranching and is now in the capable hands of Kimberly and her husband Stephen.
This past December Kimberly was interviewed by EasyCare dealer of the month and natural hoof care practitioner Amanda Beno Marsh for Western Horsemen Magazine's monthly feature Women of the West.
As Kimberly reveals in the interview, Date Creek Ranch embraces innovation and recognizes what it takes to survive in the ranching business today. Proactive and environmentally conscious, the ranch embodies a true spirit of a new West.
This same forward thinking carries over to the ranch's horse keeping practices. Kimberly, with the help of Amanda Marsh of Mountain Top Hoof Trimming Services have had success keeping the ranch horses barefoot, happy and sound in some very tough country.
Kimberly, has tried several styles of hoof boots but found the Old Mac's G2 with 12 mm Comfort Pads to be the hoof protection that suits her horses best and can handle the extremely rocky terrain on the ranch. Now with the new Easyboot Glove Back Country she is excited about giving this new boot the ultimate rock test.
Rocks and more rocks.
The spirit of the West is one of individuals who never settled for the status quo. I challenge you to get a little western and to not be more comfortable with your old problems than with a new solution. Folks from all over the country and around the world just like Kimberly Knight are bucking the tradition of shoeing and choosing a barefoot lifestyle for their horses. Perhaps there's a little bit Western in all of us.
Debbie Schwiebert
Vet Dealer & Hoof Care Practitioner Accounts
I manage the hoof care practitioner and veterinarian dealer accounts at EasyCare. An integral part of my job is to stay current in all areas of barefoot hoof care, which enables me to serve this vital group of EasyCare dealers at the next level.
"Will my horses wear the same size boot in the Easyboot Glove Back Country as they wear in the Easyboot Glove?"
Of all the questions I receive regarding the Easyboot Glove Back Country, this one seems to be the most frequently asked and the most challenging to answer. The Easyboot Glove Back Country and the Easyboot Glove utilize the same size chart, however customers may want to consider sizing up for the Back Country. It is a difficult concept to grasp but even though the boot shell size is the same, there are some reasons why you may want to select a larger size for the Back Country.
Easyboot Glove size 1 and Easyboot Glove Back Country size 1.5.
The Easyboot Glove requires a very precise fit and needs to be snug enough that the front V expands. Success with the Glove often requires using a rubber mallet or an alternative method to ensure the boot is fully seated on the hoof before riding out. It also entails frequent maintenance trimming. The Glove has proved to be a very successful boot and was even awarded Horse Journal's product of the year in 2011. Despite this success, there were customers who were unable to use the Glove due to length of trim cycle, lack of hand strength or hoof conformation that would not yield a snug fit. The Easyboot Glove Back Country looked to the Easyboot Trail for inspiration to tackle these challenges.
Size 1 - the V expands and the result is a nice snug fit.
Cal wears this size for the Easyboot Glove.
Unlike the precise fit required for the Easyboot Glove, the Easyboot Glove Back Country will still work on horses where the fit is not “perfect”. The Back Country's Cordura upper stabilizes the boot on the hoof and allows for flexibility in sizing. This unique upper features a front plate that is essentially an integrated power strap - which means unless you are currently using power straps on your Gloves, the Back Country will have a slightly snugger fit than the same size in the Glove. One reason you may choose to increase boot size is to accommodate this feature. Since my horse Cal has a very snug fit in the size 1 Glove, I chose to use the size 1.5 for the Back Country. Some other reasons you may choose to size up are for ease of application or to accommodate a 6-8 week trim cycle.
Size 1.5 - the V does not expand but there is no gaping and it is not possible
to twist the boot. Cal wears this size for the Easyboot Glove Back Country.
To summarize: if you currently use the Easyboot Glove and have a snug fit without power straps, you can size up and eliminate the need for a rubber mallet, making application easier. If you need power straps and/or the fit is not very snug with your Gloves, then staying with the same size for the Back Country makes sense. If you do not have previous experience with the Easyboot Glove, we recommend getting a Fit Kit to ensure you select the proper size. Please contact us with any questions or concerns regarding fit and one of our customer service representatives will be happy to help you.
Alayna Wiley
Customer Service
As one of the customer service representatives, I am happy to help get your horse into the right boots. I have plenty of hands on experience since my horses have been barefoot and booted since 2003.
I'm getting geared up for this year's Competitive Trail and Endurance season in Alberta. In the next week or so, my horses will be going to see the vet for their annual check-ups and barring any surprises there, we will begin conditioning very shortly.
After a few months off due to the harsh conditions of our winter my horses feet are usually a lot more sensitive; both from disuse and standing around in the moisture, so I always have to boot until things dry up.
In the past I have only used my 2001 APHA mare for CTR. I purchased her from Alberta's only (at the time) AANHCP's trimmer and had a steep learning curve to follow when it comes to natural hoof care and boots. Her hooves were amazing and now it was my job not to mess them up. At the time I brought her home Easyboot Epics were the best technology for her hooves and intended sport.
Since then these Epics have seen hundreds of miles. We go completely barefoot when the terrain allows but these boots are absolutely my "go-to" hoof protection of choice.
This year I will be conditioning one, maybe two other horses and will need to fit them for boots. I love my Epic's as they have never given me any trouble on the trail through the toughest of conditions and their adjustable fit make them ideal for hooves mid-late trim as well. I'm not sure if I want new Epics for my other horses this year or should I try something new?
One horse measures out to have a round hoof and should fit into Easyboot Gloves which I've heard nothing but good things about. The third horse will most likely be ridden by novice riders and therefore might benefit most from the Easyboot Glove Back Country due to their ease of application. On the other hand, both should also do fine in Epics and I trust this boot completely.
What to do? What to do? I'm having a hard time telling myself to branch out because of the great success I've had with the one style, but technology is forever changing and I might just have to take the leap.
Watch for us on the trail and you might be surprised to find what is on my horse's feet.
Around our area of eastern Australia (and probably Australia in general) it feels like we have been in spring for at least 12 months, with abnormal and continual warmish and wet weather promoting amazing pasture growth. After being in perpetual minor drought conditions for the last decade at first this change was wonderful. But after struggling with weight and hoof issues for the last year, we're all a bit over it now.
No-one likes to have their weight issues commented on, and Joby felt that having a grazing muzzle on for at least 12 hours of every day very insulting. To me it was a much better alternative to locking her up in the proverbial Jenny Craig paddock, but Joby apparently liked her voluptuous figure - without the time to keep her in full ridden work, I was losing the battle despite the feed restrictions.
All that changed in the space of an afternoon when I decided to create a paddock track in her 2 acre rectangular paddock that she shared with 2 other horses. Using some steel star pickets at the corners, and push-down stakes at intervals in between, I was able to create a version of Jaime Jackson's Paddock Paradise - a simple track around the perimeter of the paddock, approx 2 horse widths wide along the straights, more in the corners for flowing movement, and bending where necessary to wind around trees and stay away from non-grassed areas. I was able to put in the pickets and posts, and thread the tape around the whole way in less than 3 hours by myself (with the help of a Jack Russell Terror called Hedgehog!)
It reduced an overgrown paddock into a manageable containment area, promoting movement and interest - there is often a "catch-up" feeling with the horses. Joby has lost a little bit of weight without needing to be muzzled and is talking to me again. As the feed in the track area has gone, I have started shifting the fence tape inwards to allow more feed, and/or let them in to the centre area for controlled grazing time. I contructed it very early in January and these photos were taken 8 weeks later. Although the track is well eaten it is holding it's integrity, and the centre is still overgrown. One horse per 3 acres used to be the normal grazing ratio - the last year it's been ridiculously different.
The paddock track has been a great solution to a frustrating problem, keeping the horses happy and healthy promoting movement which is great for hooves and weight reduction. It will be easy to dismantle in winter if the pasture growth slows down and/or they get more work. All I can say is if I had known how easy it was to construct I would have done it much sooner!
There is always talk of the importance of boot fit, but what about gaiter fit? Is it too loose? Too tight? Well, I am going to give a few tips, so sit back and take a deep breath.
Let's use the Easyboot Glove as an example, even though any EasyCare boot with a gaiter could be used.
Typically, the gaiter should be very snug once the boot itself is on the hoof correctly. I have seen other riders with snug gaiters, finger loose gaiters, and just plain ol' four fingers between the pastern and gaiter loose gaiters. I think each horse/rider team has a preference, as it should be. But what else can be done for a happy fit?
If your horse is anything like mine, there are those feathers that get in the way. What am I talking about? Check out the photo below.
Hair much?
Ahhh, much better.
So the question is, should I trim or even clip those hairy feathers away? The answer is: it depends. If the hair under the gaiters are getting matted, full of sweat and mud or you think the gaiter doesn't have the best fit in your opinion, then yes. Also, if you are concerned about underlying possible rubs it would be a good idea to nix the hair. Starting with a 'clean' slate will give you an idea about boot and gaiter fit. As a distance rider and a rider with very long hair, I personally feel for the horse and like to get all that hair out of the way. I know I would appreciate it.
Tight gaiters, loose gaiters, hairy pasterns or not, the importance is a comfy horse in well fitting EasyCare boots and a happy ride.
It's March and it's all about the luxurious new Easyboot Glove Back Country. Much of this month's newsletter is dedicated to the details of the latest addition to the EasyCare hoof boot lineup.
Garrett Ford tells all about his opinion of the new boot.
Kevin Myers summarizes four things you absolutely need to know about the new boot.
Alayna Wiley writes the first public review of the new boot.
Dawn Willoughby's popular blog returns this month with an aritcle on rehabbing OTTB feet successfully.
And our Dealer of the Month is Amanda Beno Marsh from Mountain Top Natural Hoof Trimming Service.
Do you need support in making boot choices or troubleshooting? You can contact us at the EasyCare offices for free advice, no matter where you purchase your Easyboots.
Please keep in touch: our goal is to help you succeed with EasyCare products and your booting needs.
The launch date of the new Easyboot Glove Back Country has finally arrived. Here are four things you need to know:
1. The boot is available for the month of March exclusively through seven partner dealers across the globe. That means you can only buy it from them until Monday, April 2, 2012. The list of Glove Back Country dealers is as follows:
Valley Vet Supply
Marysville, KS 66508
Phone: (785) 562-5106
Website: www.valleyvet.com
2. The boot is available in 18 sizes. Just like the Easyboot Glove, it will come in 11 regular sizes and 7 wide sizes. You can see the sizing chart on our website. Because of the way the boot attaches around the hoof, the Glove Back Country will be more forgiving with fit throughout the entire growth cycle between trims. If you have a long trim cycle, you can even go a little larger in sizing to accommodate the growth.
3. We're calling this a medium to high mileage boot. We've given it a mileage rating of 25 - 50 miles per week. We're interested in user's experiences with it: there is a chance this could serve as a higher mileage boot.
4. The Easyboot Glove Back Country is built with the finest and most luxurious materials available today. Think of it as the finest off-road vehicle you've ever driven.
I am responsible for the marketing and branding of the EasyCare product line. I believe there is a great deal to be gained from the strategy of using booted protection for horses, no matter what the job you have for your equine partner.
Spring has sprung in southern Arizona and love is in the air. My three year love affair with the Easyboot Glove is over – there’s a new boot in my life, the Easyboot Glove Back Country. Some may criticize me for leaving my old boot for a younger model, but I couldn't help but fall head over heels for the Glove Back Country. Last weekend I had my first ride with these boots in picturesque Catalina State Park...it was magical.
Poppies blooming in front of the Santa Catalina Mountains.
The moment I saw the Glove Back Country I was impressed with the superior quality of the components: the proven tread design of the Glove, the soft comfort cup gaiter, and the breathable upper (made of the most durable materials available). The Back Country is the result of combining two of our best boots, the Easyboot Glove and the Easyboot Trail. In 2011, the Glove was awarded Horse Journal's Product of the Year, and the Trail was a Horse Journal Best Buy - with inspiration like that how can you go wrong?
The Easyboot Glove Back County (center) combines successful
features of the Easyboot Glove (left) and the Easyboot Trail (right).
The Glove Back Country is a medium to high mileage riding boot (25-50 miles per week) which makes it ideal for the majority of riders. Although the sizing chart is the same as the Easyboot Glove, the fit does not need to be as snug. Customers who were unable to use the Glove due to length of trim cycle or lack of hand strength will be able to use the Back Country by selecting a half size larger. If you do not have previous experience with the Glove, we recommend getting a Fit Kit to ensure you select the proper size. Feel free to contact us with any questions or concerns regarding fit; call 1-800-447-8836 and one of our customer service representatives will be happy to help you.
Glove Back Country ready for application.
The Glove Back Country is easy to apply with virtually no hand strength required. To prepare the boot for application, first open the upper and fold it forward, temporarily securing the upper in this position with the Velcro (see photo above). Next, fold down the gaiter so that it is flush with the shell of the boot. Facing the rear of your horse, pick up the hoof and put it into the boot toe first. Pull the gaiter over the heel bulbs and put the hoof down. To secure the upper, unfold from the front and pull the flap with the Back Country logo snug across the back. Pull the second flap over the first and finish by securing the Velcro piece with the Back Country logo.
Glove Back Country after putting the hoof down (left) and securing (right).
My first ride in the Glove Back Country was a huge success! Since the size 1 Glove is very snug on Cal, I decided to size up to a 1.5 for the Back Country. I took Cal out on a six mile route with varied terrain. The trails in Catalina State Park are the perfect boot testing grounds taking us through some deep sand and in and out of steep rocky washes. I didn't go through water on my first ride but plan to soon. The ride was comprised of equal parts walking and trotting with some cantering thrown in on the nice stretches. The boots performed flawlessly: they were secure and there were no rubs. I can't wait to ride in these boots again and have no doubt that they will be our most popular boots in 2012.
For more information on the individual components of the the Glove Back Country, visit easybooglovebackcountry.com. To see the boot page and find out how and where to purchase the boot, go to our website.
Alayna Wiley
Customer Service
As one of the customer service representatives, I am happy to help get your horse into the right boots. I have plenty of hands on experience since my horses have been barefoot and booted since 2003.
Once and for all let's make a concerted effort to debunk a popular myth that thoroughbreds have shelly walls, thin soles, pencil thin frogs and for these reasons they need shoes. "The hell!" I say. Even with wrong hoof care from birth to rescue/career change, the vast majority of OTTBs can be rehabbed to soundness. And gorgeous feet!
Cayuga
When I met him he was 12 years old, shod most of his life. He trained on the track but did not race. Cayuga was living at Tory Hill, a gorgeous farm with a herd of about 10 barefoot geldings, mostly OTTBs, with full turnout on huge and hilly pastures.
Too much hoof capsule. Crappy Walls or Horn.
'Beer Can' feet. The heels are almost as long as the toe. This tells me that the coffin bone is pointing down at a steep angle. The tip of the coffin bone is no doubt disintegrating from mechanical stress. Unfortunately, the farrier can only trim so much and then puts the shoe back on a long, misshapen foot to maintain it. Rehab demands pulling the shoes.
The foot is sweeping forward, in front of the horse.
In a general sense, the green line indicates where the hoof will end after rehab. The Red points out (1) upward pressure of the shoe and (2) a long under run heel
Cayuga's Straight Forward Rehabilitation:
As I applied the mustang roll, mechanical pressure on the lamina was removed and the steep, well connected wall at the top half inch of the capsule grew right in.
As this happens the hoof will get back under the horse. The entire foot will transform as the capsule becomes smaller and the heels shorten.
Transformation is organic. A lot of things are happening at once.
I never force any angle or any particular length because above the hoof is a unique body with unique movement.
Below, in 7 months, the hoof capsule looked more compact. Soles and walls thicken. Heels open up as the frog and internal structures improve. The more movement and the healthier the diet, the better the foot.
7 months later a nicer foot, still on the mend.
Still a long capsule and long heels (as they appear from the outside) but over time it all corrects. Most importantly Cayuga was sound, ridden in padded Epic boots throughout.
Smartie
This fancy OTTB had been in shoes a long term. Sadly we didn't make it to a full rehab before the owner put him back in shoes. He has some things to show us.
This unraveling hoof wall with cracks around the nail holes is not being held together by the shoe.
Force comes down the leg, hits the shoe and runs back up the hoof and leg maintaining the cracks. To treat the unraveling wall, I would definitely use White Lightening to insure there is no bacteria maintaining the problem. Otherwise, it will grow out in about 3 months.
Solar View: Under run heels and long toe
From the hairline in the back of the foot to the heel where Smartie lands, you see about 2" of heel length running under the horse. Many people misinterpret this saying their horses won't grow heels. Smartie, and many horses, grow heels that run forward.
If the frog is healthy and can take a pounding from the current ground conditions, I'll bring the heels back, and down, half inch at a trim. By the end of rehab the heels will in the back of the foot, next to the back of the frog. Above the frog, internally, the digital cushion and lateral cartilages begin to re-develop and give Smartie the structure he needs.
Above, the toe wall appears to be about 3" in front of the end or apex of the frog. Much too long. If you wait about a week after pulling shoes, the horse will develop a toe callus and you can rasp the toe, 10:00 - 2:00, back to but not through, the toe callus. The callus looks like a long bump.
Personally I like to pull the shoes, round things up and leave the horse alone for a month. Pulling shoes is traumatic enough for one day.
My Thoughts on Boots: Because Smartie has a long toe, he would not fit into The Trail or Generation 2. The top portion of the boots would rub his pastern. Boots that fit above the hairline are a good choice for the rounder foot that allows the leg to center in the boot.
Bugsy
If it looks like a Duck Foot, is it?
Just because long toes, complete disconnection of hoof wall to coffin bone and under run heels are seen on almost every Racehorse does not mean it's normal! Can you imagine racing in these 'duck feet'? Poor Bugsy was right off the track, shoes a dangling!
Above, if you ran your fingers from the hairline down the wall, you will find where the wall is well connected to the coffin bone. In Bugsy's case there was a hint of connection!
Under run heels and a long toe, confirm what we saw from the top. Nice frog though.
Here comes the foot he wants, growing in from the top.
Don't let the steep angle scare you. It will level off as the foot grows.
Voila! The foot is now under the horse.
Over time, with lots of movement in a herd, the heel as it appears from the outside will shorter to about half this length. Bugsy still has a lot of rehabbing to do.
Love "Sunny" Days
5 years old. Just arrived from the rescue via New Holland Auction.
Typical racehorse feet: Paper thin shelly walls. Laminitic rings from top to bottom.
Another straight forward rehab.
The black line indicates where ideal wall to coffin bone connection ends. It will take a few capsule growths (7 months per capsule for Sunny) to get things in order. During the spring he will lose a little connection on the bottom. And as viewed from the sole, he will loose a half inch of concavity. However, he does not go lame. Hacking out, he is happiest, in the spring, in his Gloves.
Dinner Time at Tory Hill Farm, home to 7 barefoot Off the Track Thoroughbreds.
A Word on Long Term Rehab of Racehorses
As long as the horse has most of his coffin bone and the lamina aren't necrotic, hoof rehabilitation of former racehorses is usually straight forward.
I gave Sunny off one year from ridden work. This allows all the micro tears and chips to heal or sort themselves out and drugs to clear. I re-started him as a colt in training. From learning ground manners, haltering, leading, ponying off another horse, desensitizing and plenty of in-hand work, former racehorses need a complete reboot if you want an exceptional friend.
As for his body, I made an incorrect assumption that Sunny could fix himself in an active herd on 35 acres. Now I would have jumped on modalities available to me like chiropractic adjustments, accupuncture, Equine Touch, Ortho Bionomy, sports massage, myofacia release. Learn from the professionals if you can.
Currently, unless I am stuck, I do all my own body work. Much more cost effective! There is a wealth of information on the Internet, in books and on DVDs. A horse can't walk around on bad feet for years, ridden incorrectly at the track and not need serious attention to mind and body!
The wonderful thing about thoroughbreds is that they are sensitive, smart and athletic. Most I have met really crave a relationship with good, kind people.
Happy Trails and Give your ponies a big hug for me!
Amanda Beno Marsh has a master’s degree in wildlife biology and wildlife and range resource management. She has had horses and worked with horses since she was very young. She has lived in California, Arizona and Utah and has spent much of her time surfing and rock climbing as well as riding horses. She loves thrills and adventure.
Amanda is now based in the Prescott, Arizona area, but works throughout the state of Arizona and in southern California. She attributes her success to always wanting more information and to further her education. She has a science background, which helps, but lists her foremost experience as the help she has received from Dr. Tomas Teskey, DVM.
Amanda has been trimming for approximately three years. She first started out as a farrier’s apprentice. "After following him around for several months I decided that the natural approach to hoof care was more my style. I am a science minded person, and I researched the science. I saw results early on and the more I practiced and the more I learned the more I decided that natural hoof care was my “calling”.
Mountain Top stocks the Easyboot Epic, Glove, Edge, Trail, Old Mac's G2 and Comfort Pads. The Old Mac's G2 is her best seller and she generally pairs pads with the boots.
Amanda trimming at a clinic in Wickenburg, AZ.
Without boots, Amanda says her job would be much harder and horse owners wouldn’t be able to see and feel their horses succeed as quickly as they do. "I always listen to my clients and pay attention to what they want," says Amanda. "I explain everything I do to horse owners and I keep them in the loop. I call to check in about horses on my rounds because I truly want to know how they are doing. I care a lot and that really shows."
Amanda hosted several free clinics and workshops in order to get her name out into the local community, but she says word of mouth has been the most important way for her business to grow.
She and her husband use EasyCare hoof boots on all of their riding horses. They ride barefoot as much as possible, but when the conditions call for hoof protection, they like to use the Easyboot Trail.
When asked about her most rewarding experience as a hoof care practitioner, Amanda tells the story of removing the shoes from the working ranch horses on the Date Creek Ranch in Wickenburg, Arizona. "Kimberley Knight and her husband Stephan worked hard during the transition process," says Amanda. "And because they have done everything right, their horses are well on their way to a successful transition." A major key to their success has been using the Old Mac's G2s and Comfort Pads when they are working cattle in the rocks. The horses are turned out on several hundred acre pastures. "Kimberley is so fond of her horses, she loves them and wants what’s best for them. She seeks knowledge and doesn’t just rely on me for information. Working with her has raised the bar for me. I feel like anything is possible with natural hoof care."
Amanda's favorite event is the annual Equifest in Prescott each year. Last year she was invited to speak and present a demonstration on natural hoof care. Several thousand people attend the free event every year, and Amanda will be presenting at the event again in September, 2012.
Natural Hoof Care and Hoof Booting Workshop with Rusty Toth
Education on Natural Hoof Care and Trimming!
Bring a horse for a trim, and boot fitting!
Everyone Is Welcome, with or without a horse!
Rusty Toth is a graduate of the Oregon School of Natural Hoof Care. He has also understudied with Duncan McLaughlin from the Australian Natural Hoof Care School. Rusty is a professional trimmer whose clientele is comprised mostly of endurance, barrel racing, and cutting horses. Rusty’s personal equine passion is Endurance. He has completed numerous 100 mile events barefoot/booted and believes in the success from this protocol as the most beneficial for both the soundness and health of our equine's performance and pleasure alike.
Please RSVP With number of horses and people attending. We will send you the address and directions at that time. 10 AM until 3 PM Light lunch provided.
Boot Fitting and Education is Free
Trims are $45.00
Large Inventory of Easycare Hoof Boot Products Available for Sale!
Our next Spring event is May 12-13, 2012 with:
Paul Williamson (41) started riding at age 10 and quickly rose up through the ranks as one of the best thoroughbred riders today. He lives and works in Japan with the Japanese Racing Association.
Paul’s non-aggressive approach and ability to “get the job done “makes him one of the YouTube’s most popular trainers with more than 3,200 subscribers. www.youtube.com/endospink click the link to visit his channel and see him working with horses.
Paul picked up on a natural occurrence that happens in all horses, and turned it into one of the most valuable tools a horseperson can have in their toolbox. He calls it The TAP and has incorporated this tool into his colt starting system. This training tool can be matched by no-one in regards to starting time (under 20mins).
Participants may bring young horses to be started or horses with dangerous behavior problems.
Topics to Be Covered
• Paul’s signature TAP demonstrated live. Not to be missed!
• Learn tips and tricks of ground driving.
• See at least 5 horses started in one day, using different techniques.
• Learn the dos & don’ts of side-reins.
• All colt starting & training questions answered.
• Learn easier, safer & kinder ways to handle your horse.
• Stop wondering if you have what it takes to start your own horse, find out!
TICKETS
1-Day Audit $45
2-Day Audit $60
Bring your horse $100 per horse 1- day session, stalls available!
Rounding out the Summer in July, MileMakers presents:
Now booking private lessons with Stacy Westfall. This is an opportunity to ride one-on-one with Stacy. You do not have to have a reining horse or western style horse to take a private lesson! Stacy instructs all disciplines. There will not be a formal clinic format, no auditors/audience.
This is by appointment only! July 21-26, 2012
Please inquire for details on days, times and fees.
There are certain words that you just DON'T say around certain groups of people. We don't say "steak" in front of a group of vegans, don't say "Ford" at a Dodge dealership and you don't drop the F-bomb in front of a bunch of "natural barefoot hoof care providers." By F-bomb, I mean the word "farrier." What did you think I meant??? Sheesh I am a lady.
Oh my Gosh is that a FARRIER touching your horse?!?!?! Yup, a tall farrier.
I generally am not a purist when it comes to the barefoot thing. While I fully believe in the benefits and advantages in a properly trimmed barefoot horse, I am around enough of a variety of owners, horses and disciplines to understand that maintaining a bare foot horse isn't ideal for some situations. Unfortunately, forcing the matter in a less-than-ideal situation is a recipe for disaster and sure isn't good for the positive image of natural hoof care, nor is it in the horse's best interest. As I think most will agree, 100% commitment is necessary for success. When people get all high and mighty about it, I tend to roll my eyes. So when I hear someone touting that they are a "natural hoof care provider," it makes me roll my eyes a little. NOT because I disrespect those who have dedicated their lives to truly learning and bettering the lives of the horses we love, but because of all the rest who have seen it as a way to make a quick buck off of sweet, well-meaning horse owners all over.
Short little back and long, long legs. Chant tends to forge if he's not trimmed with a short enough break-over. Sometimes the owner does have good information that should be taken into consideration when trimming horses. But we'll get to that.
Last fall, I took my young gelding, Chant (or, ironically, F-Bomb as we *lovingly* call him) to a friend in a neighboring state for some remedial education. If you recall, I received a big, beautiful white horse in trade, who would be coming to me to transition to competing in Easyboots and receiving a bit of fine tuning. I was expecting Nero to be a great blogging subject throughout his "transition," but was a bit miffed when we pulled his shoes, touched up his otherwise beautifully trimmed and balanced hooves and haven't looked back. So much for blog fodder! Anyway, I had planned to drive over to ride and trim Chant every six weeks or so, but of course life got in the way and before we knew it he was overdue.
Life as he knew it was about to change.
Now we all know how incredibly cool and laid-back I am about things. I didn't freak out about having someone else trim my horse, no way! (Um, right. I was totally freaking out). Having been the only trimmer of my horses for the past five years, I felt stuck and helpless 300 miles away. I resorted to the internet and quickly realized that there isn't much of a database for trimmers, nor is there any standardized certifications to at least give an idea of a trimmer's education. It wasn't easy to sift through all the pretty pictures and the right phrases, but there wasn't much to chose from either. I made a decision based on a few emails and an appointment was set for Chant.
Little Chantley is cursed, er, blessed, with a very short back and very long legs. As result, he forges terribly if his break-over isn't just right and I made sure to state this several times- "Please back up his toes!!" No matter, not much was addressed in the trim. I was sent several pictures afterward that literally made me cry. All the sudden my horse looked weak in the pastern and looked as though he had long toe/low heel syndrome in all four feet! I was devastated because this is the horse who has very low maintanence trimming requirements and has been the easiest of any horse I've ever had to maintain. What went wrong? How could this trim fail to address the issues I asked about and leave him looking worse than before? I don't hold anything against the trimmer, I know it's a tough profession and difficult way to make a living, but the trim left much to be desired and I began to better understand where the common lack of respect for the term "barefoot trimmer" came from among other equine professionals. If this is what you get, no wonder veterinarians are leary of working with these individuals to fix and improve normal, not to mention pathological hooves. Of course this is only one trim on one horse by one person, but is this more the norm than the exception?
Front feet after the trim.
The heels were taken down, and the toes were squared, which doesn't make any sense to me. His coronary band was pushed up and the toe pillars were not backed up. His right front makes me wanna cry- long toe, anyone?
Not quite the look I was going for.
The hinds were also bad. Heels taken down, toes not addressed. Definitely a different style than I am used to.
Luckily for us, my friend's farrier was due two weeks later. I spoke with him over the phone and told him a little of what was going on. Not only was he hilarious, he was honest and upfront. He said he would take a look and get Chant fixed up and would call me after he was done. Wouldn't you know the FARRIER gave my horse an incredible trim and I have absolutely no qualms about continuing to have him trim while the horse is there. I even wish he was closer so he could save my aching little back and trim all my horses!
(His) Right front after the F*&^%$R trimmed it.
Finally the toe is addressed. One can argue he used his rasp higher up than ideal, but it is exactly what I would have done and got Chant's feet back to where they needed to be.
Beautiful bevel and nice short toes.
Should it matter who trims the horse, as long as it's a good trim? I don't think so. Should the hoof care provider listen to the person who *knows* the horse, and make adjustments to their trim accordingly? Absolutely. A friend of mine is passionate about education and feels that vets, trimmers and farriers all have something to offer, and that pooling the resources will lead to better performance on all fronts. Keep an open mind and see things for what they are. My point in all this is don't let verbiage and titles rule your decisions. Talking the talk doesn't mean anything if the results don't leave your horse walking the walk.
Chant enjoys a 15-mile loop from Oregon's Prineville ride with trainer Darlene Anderson. He did the loop barefoot with ease two weeks after his trim. I'll go ride him next weekend and get his boot situation lined out. Maybe even touch up his trim if he needs it :)
Last week I received the following question: “Do you have a boot that is one size fits all?”
After suppressing my urge to giggle, I answered that unfortunately we do not. Horses come in so many shapes and sizes that I can’t think of a single piece of tack that is one size fits all - that would be too easy. Whether it is your saddle, your bit, or your boots, fit is crucial to keeping you and your horse happy. When I receive interest from potential boot users, the first question I ask is if they have the horse’s hoof measurements available. Although I love hearing about a horse’s age, breed, color, height, and weight, those attributes do not help me determine the ideal boot style or size.
“Will these boots stay on?”
Yes, but only if the fit is correct. Fit is the number one criterion for determining the best boot for your horse. The different boot styles will have different sole shapes - this is why hoof measurements are the starting point. Since horses often have variations in hoof size, each hoof that will be booted needs to be measured. Measurements should be taken after a fresh trim. If they are taken later in the trim cycle, it is likely the boots ordered will be too large which increases the chances of boot loss and boot rubs. Regardless of the boot you are interested in, metric measurements are preferable because they are more precise. If you are considering the Easyboot Glove, you have to use metric since the size charts are in millimeters only. Measuring in inches and converting to millimeters will render the measurement process inaccurate. For the Glove we also recommend getting a Fit Kit to save you the hassle and wasted time of buying and returning multiple boots.
Identifying the heel buttresses (green) is necessary to get an accurate length measurement.
“How do I measure?”
The EasyCare website has a wonderful Education tab and this question is one of the topics discussed. Many people have no problem measuring the widest part of the hoof but the length measurement (toe to heel buttress line) is a bit trickier. Quite often, people measure past the heel buttress line and include the heel bulbs. To determine where the heel buttress line is you must first determine where the heel buttresses are (in the photo above they are outlined in green). When you pick up your horse’s foot, follow the collateral grooves along the sides of the frog which make a “V” (outlined in orange). At the top of the “V” look on either side and notice that the hoof wall curves inward towards the bar. These points are the heel buttresses, the last weight bearing part of the hoof. When you have located them, draw an imaginary line across the back of the foot (dashed red line) and measure from that line to the toe. Once you have your measurements, the EasyCare customer service team will be happy to help you select the ideal boot style and size.
Alayna Wiley
Customer Service
As one of the customer service representatives, I am happy to help get your horse into the right boots. I have plenty of hands on experience since my horses have been barefoot and booted since 2003.
When you peruse 'Practical Horseman', 'Equus' or 'Horse Illustrated', you may find a professional saying, "Well barefeet might work for some horses, but never Thoroughbreds. They just don't have good feet." Or, "We've bred the feet off those Thoroughbreds." If your friend described her new horse's hooves as flat soled, long toed, with thin, shelly walls, don't you immediately think, "Thoroughbred!" I know I do.
With the natural trim, EasyCare boots, good turnout, some body work and a saddle that fits, my friend and former client, Lyndsay, an owner-trimmer brought Garwin back from the brink. This handsome and talented thoroughbred was a few strides short of becoming a lawn ornament.
If Garwin can make a come back, I think you will agree, almost any Thoroughbred can!
Garwin, 2008.
When he developed debilitating subsolar abscesses in both front hooves, the vet excised the soles. His owner followed the vet's directions for Garwin's daily bandaging. When I met him, Garwin had been on stall rest for 3+ months and remained lame.
"I think the abscesses are the least of your troubles," I said, walking into the barn.
Still shod in back, Garwin had about an inch of good connection between the coffin bone and the hoof wall on the front hooves. You can easily see that steep growth right under the hairline. As the wall grows out, the angle will lessen.
The remaining, severely flared wall is disconnected hoof wall. It is the wall that "rotates" (to use traditional parlance) away from the coffin bone; not the other way around. Without knowing anything more, you could assume his feet are flat. Not congenitally flat as so many folks say but flat because the feet are a mess. The hoof capsule is disconnected and too high; the boney column of the leg too low. Nothing is where it should be. Nothing's working; there is no correct function. You could also assume that the bottom periphery of the coffin bone has become 'moth-eaten'. Coffin bones are not suppose to be on the ground!
Why remove of the soles? The vet's concern was that the coffin bone could become infected. Wouldn't removing his soles also opens him to infection? And it appears that the primary cause of the problem, severely flared feet, aka chronic founder, was not being addressed. When I met Garwin in October, he was sore on any surface. And his owner was understandably frustrated.
Right Front Hoof and Leg. Left Front Sole Growing Back, Slowly.
With flare like this, Easyboot Epics are hands-down my top pick. They are very forgiving to get on when dealing with deformed hoof capsules. And the Epics will take the half inch pad that Garwin needed. He walked and trotted off sound so we turned him out in the pasture. First time out in months, Garwin was delerious.
Lesson: Remove shoes before checking for lameness. (YouTube forces the other "related" videos. Not my choice.)
He was a happy guy for sure.
On a weekly basis his owner maintained the mustang roll. The well connected wall grew in, as expected. In my view, having the owner do weekly trims on a horse like this speeds rehabilitation and avoid the set backs of waiting too long between trims.
December, 2008: Looking a bit better.
Garwin progressed nicely. By rolling the bottom of the wall, the mechanical forces ripping apart the wall from the coffin bone have been eliminated. This then allows the well connected hoof wall to grow down the foot. In one full growth cycle of about 9 months, a decent foot is grown. It will take another year or two to get adequate sole and wall thickness. The owner routinely soaked his front hooves in White Lightning as a way to deal with what must have been a large amount of necrotic tissue in these rehabbing feet.
Because Garwin was an extreme case, the owner consulted with a more experienced barefoot trimmer, my good friend Laura Florence. Laura gave her additional insights on rehabilitation: how long to use boots for turnout, when to begin riding, tweaking the trim. She also introduced Garwin and Lyndsay to Zarna Carter and her bodywork, Equine Positional Release.
Lyndsay began to see the light at the end of the tunnel. There was still concern about Garwin ever competing in combined training events - dressage, stadium jumping and cross country jumping. Garwin's feet remained "freakishly flat". Laura invited her back to the Center to have radiographs. The vet was not hopeful. She pronounced Garwin laminitic and recommended shoes. Laura's concerns were allayed as there was nothing on x-ray that she didn't expect to see. It just took an incredibly long time for the bottom of his feet to recover. But he did recover, without shoes of course.
Over time, Garwin transitioned from padded Epics - a different size for each foot! - to Gloves. His sizing has since normalized although I must say they are pretty small feet for such a big guy. This is due to early shoeing of racehorses. The coffin bone on most horses develops until they are 4.
October 2011 at Burgundy Hollow Event
Cross Country Jumping Course in Gloves.
Garwin Attacks the Stadium Jumping Course in his Gloves.
Back Home, during a dressage lesson. Check out the spiffy transmitter!
All he needed was barefoot care from his thoughtful, patient owner. And boots from EasyCare of course.
January, 2012 Lyndsay reports that Garwin has developed concavity all around. Like most Thoroughbreds his wall thickness is about 1/4". The outer horn is strong. Frogs are stellar. He has grown a nice wall to coffin bone connection. What more could you ask for?
One On-Going Challenge Rules in eventing do not permit the use of EasyCare boots in the dressage competition. If you are not familiar with this combined training, you might think Garwin should be able to go barefoot in a ring.
But unless you are competing at the highest levels, the surface of the rings are far from stellar. Some are made of stone dust which over time is like riding on cement. Alternatively the organizers might put up a fence somewhere in a field. Unfortunately Garwin does suck back on these surfaces. He needs his Gloves.
I hope an eventing competitor will step up to the challenge of having the rules changed. In the meantime, I am hopeful that Lyndsay can compete in the Glue On Glove. I have learned that in Australia, they are trimming down the outer portion of the Glue On Glove and just calling it a Glue On! (Better to ask forgiveness than permission?)
Better to change the rules!
If you would like to see more photos of this great team, go to Lyndsay Poole's Facebook.
In March, I will feature another story of the Thoroughbred racehorse, Chance and his friend, 2 year old Zola. Check them out at The Racehorse Experiement.
Happy Trails, Dawn Willoughby Proud Owner of a rehabbed OTTB
Based just outside Mooi River in kwaZulu Natal, South Africa, Easyboot SA is run by Ben, Helga and Peter Ward. Ben has an MSc. in Agriculture and worked in the Seed and Agro Chemical industry for many years. He got involved in saddle making through a friend and in 2006, he and Helga took over the running and ownership of Franco C Saddlery.
Ben and Helga.
Their main market is endurance and they compete in the sport with two of their three sons. Helga grew up on a farm and has been riding since she can remember. After school she studied dietetics and worked in hospitals until she married Ben. She now runs the offices of Franco C Saddlery, Easyboot SA and their local Endurance Club.
Peter and Buddy
Peter is a dairy farmer and breeds American Quarter Horses and Thoroughbreds. After leaving school he studied for a Bachelor degree in Business Management and went on to complete his MBA. He worked in computers, marketing, sales and general management before going to farming a few years ago. He has been riding and horse-mad for over 50 years.
Easyboot SA identified three boots as their best-sellers: Easyboot Glove, Easyboot Glue-On and Easyboot Trail. "We felt that these would cover the vast majority of needs in our market," said Peter when asked about their inventory. "We have invested in a full range of sizes as well as accessories for these boots. The best seller so far has been the Easyboot Glove.
Peter does his own trimming and occasionally that of a boot prospect, but he never charges for it. "I enjoy trimming as it increases the bond between you and your horse. When you have a successful endurance event it is nice to know that you set up the hooves."
In July 2011 Peter took a little horse called Buddy to Fauresmith to do the ultimate South African Endurance race: over 200 km. It was the first time for both horse and rider - and the horse only made the age cut by a few weeks. "We finished and Buddy became the first horse in the thirty year history of the race to do it wearing Glue-Ons. We have no doubt that Glue-Ons will be used in every Fauresmith from now on." Peter chronicled his experience in the Team Easyboot blog.
Easyboot SA believes the hoof boot industry is moving steadily upwards. "Horsemen are becoming better informed and more caring for their horses at a very fast rate, thanks to the availability of information via the internet. Hoof care is an obvious place for many horsemen to improve their animal husbandry as hoof boots such as the Easycare range offer real alternatives to any nail-on shoes, be they metal or plastic," said Ben when asked about what he sees for the future.
When asked about their favorite events, Fauresmith is the consistent answer across all three owners. Peter adds that Tevis is on his bucket list.
Various minerals are important for a healthy horse, and healthy hooves. I read a really great article in the Horse's Hoof, Winter 2012-Issue 45, written by Marijke van de Water. Marijke is an Equine Health & Nutrition Specialist, Homeopathic Practitioner and Medical Intuitive. She is also the founder and owner of Riva's Remedies.
Horse hooves are very much a reflection of the whole horse, and the treatment of the hoof should always consider the whole health of the horse. Healthy hoof horn produced by a healthy, well-nourished horse is smooth, strong, and free of horizontal or vertical cracks. Taking care of the whole horse will always benefit the hooves.
You need to take in to consideration the diet, proper horse hoof trimming and regular exercise to insure good, healthy blood circulation. Blood circulation is how the hoof receives oxygen and nutrients to keep them at their best. We all know that old saying "No Hoof, No Horse".
The Trim
Movement
A few of the important minerals talked about in this article, were sulphur, selenium and silica. How they contribute to really healthy hooves. There are organic varieties that are absorbed and utilized much more effectively than the inorganic form. Natural horse products can be easier to assimilate in the body as in nature, horses eat weeds and vegetation out there that is good for them. It just comes natural to them.
Silica promotes bone health, strengthens collagen and hardens the hoof wall, while selenium and sulphur contribute to collagen production and strengthen the cross link bonds in the keratin.
For a good read and more knowledge, check out this article and then check your horse's hooves. What are you seeing?
Nancy Fredrick
EasyCare Office Manager
As the office manager, I make sure the general operations of the organization run smoothly and seamlessly from A to Z. I have been on the EasyCare team since 2001 and have first hand product knowledge as my horses are barefoot and booted.
At last it was time to fit Roo's Gloves. Out came his boot bucket and the rubber mallet.
Roo's boot bucket, containing all his boots
When I first converted Roo to barefoot nearly three years ago, he wore an #0.5 on one front foot (the low heel side), an #0 on the other (the high heel side), and #00.5s on the back. More recently, after languishing in the paddock doing nothing for the last couple of years, his feet were now closer to both being #0.5 in the front, and #0s in back.
Before going further, I held the bottom of an #0.5 boot against the underside of his foot. I position the back of the boot level with his heels and then peer all around. By doing this "eyeball fit", you can see if there is any flaring that's likely to cause problems, if the toes are too long to get the hoof snugly into the front of the boot, and generally if you're even close to having the boot fit.
Side-to-side fit looks pretty good - very snug.
But looking further forward, I can see I'm going to have to work to get this boot on. It could be that if I re-evaluate his trim, I may find that his toe could be shorter.
In Roo's case I could tell that it was "sorta" going to work, but it was going to be tight - and even tighter given that this pair of #0.5 Gloves had Powerstraps attached to them.
Because I wanted my friend to get the idea of how to put the boots on, and because I knew this one was going to be a real struggle, I opted to put on a #1 Glove first, just to ease her into the whole enterprise.
Gaiter Flipping First I showed her how to flip down the gaiter as far as it would go. New gaiters, being stiff, tend to not flip down quite as far as they can, resulting in a "poofy area" closest to the boot. If you're not careful this bulge gets pushed down into the boot as you're trying to fit it and stops the boot going on properly. However, as the boot gets worn in, the gaiter will flip down much more easily and this will be less of a problem.
A new boot gaiter is "poofier", so doesn't fold back as flat as the gaiter on the older boot shown behind. This "poofiness" tends to get rolled down into the back of the boot when you're trying to push it on the foot. Eventually the gaiter will behave itself and make boot application much easier.
To begin with, even the #1 boot wouldn't go on. Part of the problem was the aforementioned bulge which immediately disappeared down the back of the boot, necessitating its removal, re-stretching down of the gaiter, and starting again. It's worth mentioning that if we had been fitting the #0.5 boot, this would have been less of a problem because there wouldn't have been extra room in the rear of the boot for the bulge to fit down where it didn't belong.
Grungy Hoofwall After some wiggling and puffing, I realised another problem was that Roo's hoof had a little dried lumpy mud glued to it which I cleaned off using the edge of the rasp. Our area is blessed with clay soil that sets like concrete. This may work fine as hoof-expander when dry, but as soon as we cross a creek, it'll turn into slime and have the effect of greasing the hoof. Not great.
Rubber Mallet Usage The boot (especially a new, unflexible boot like the one we were using) tends to get jammed on the quarters, so you have to wiggle it side to side to ease it over this wide part of the foot. Once you're close to getting it on but it still isn't quite going on all the way, I had my friend give it a couple of whacks to the toe and then a couple to the heels to seat the boot.
To get best results when you hit the toe, angle your rubber mallet so that you're pushing the boot towards the toe, not towards the underside of the foot.
Fast-Fingered Gaiter Flipping As you let the foot down, it's best to flip the gaiter up before it gets to the ground. If you don't, the horse will always stand on the gaiter and the back of the gaiter will always fill up with small rocks/mud/twigs, even when the horse is standing on a completely clean surface. It is written.
Feeling the Toe Once the boot is on (or you think it is), you can push on the bottom-front of the boot to see if there's any space behind it. If there is, your boot is not on all the way and usually a couple of whacks with the mallet, or a few steps trotting the horse will seat it properly.
Evaluating the Fit As this point you evaluate the fit again. Is the V at the front stretched slightly, or is it loose? In a perfect world, that V should be stretched slightly, showing that the whole of the boot wall is tightly hugging the hoof wall. In reality, if you have a horse with flared walls (common when you don't trim them as often as you should... <inspect fingernails>) or more particularly, a flared toe, you may find that the lower part of the boot is fitting very tightly, but the upper part is gapping somewhat (this is a problem I fight constantly with Uno's over-enthusiastic toes if I don't stay on top of them). Sometimes the addition of a powerstrap can help this problem. And sometimes it'll make it so that it's impossible to get the stupid boot on, especially if you're using a brand new one, so you might need to wait a few uses before fitting the powerstrap.
Either way, rest assured that the more you do this, the easier it'll get. Not only will the boots become more flexible with use, your boot-applying technique will also improve and you'll struggle less. The use of the rubber mallet may become a thing of the past as your boots stretch to fit your horse's feet better, and you get a better shape to his foot as his transition continues.
With a #1 boot on Roo's foot, my friend was quite pleased with her handiwork. She felt that the boot was a good fit. On the other hand, I wasn't quite so sure. Knowing that in the past Roo wore a #0.5 on this foot, I couldn't tell if the #1 Glove seemed to be working because because I'd allowed his feet to grow too long or if his feet had actually expanded in stature. My gut feeling was that although the #1 boot would probably stay on for most riding, if we got into an extreme situation (foot twisting, rough terrain, steep hills), the boot would probably come off.
Pulling out the #0.5 Glove (with powerstrap), I worked hard and managed to smoosh it onto his foot. As anticipated, it was a very tight fit and would have been much easier without the powerstrap's "help". So my choice for him would be to keep him in an 0.5 (and remove the powerstraps).
And this is where a fit kit is worth its weight. You may find that you put a #1 boot on your horse's foot and are very satisfied with the results and think that you have the best fit possible. But if you then put on a size smaller, an #0.5, you may realise that that is the perfect fit.
Similarly, by holding each size of shell against the bottom of the foot, you can readily see how the boot is going to fit.
If you really fight to get a boot on, yet the fit isn't great, could it be that the horse's toes are too long? This is something I struggled with for many weeks with Roo's back feet in the early days. With what I felt were 'reasonable-length' toes, his rear boots constantly came off on steep hills. By holding the next size smaller boot against the bottom of his foot, I was able to see how much toe needed to come off to get a really good fit - and also able to see that the amount of toe that needed to come off wasn't much. I shortened his toes and the boot losses stopped.
Listening to people talk about their boot losses despite "a good fit", I often wonder how good their fit really is and if by trying a smaller boot and/or with a small adjustment to their trimming, they'd be able to get a "perfect fit".
(...or alternatively it could be that they have horses who move like gumby and deliberately twist off their boots just to annoy them.)
-- Lucy Chaplin Trumbull Sierra Foothills, California
It's always better to demonstrate to people how not to do things. I feel they learn so much more by observing others' mistakes, than for everything to go perfectly smoothly and voila - a trimmed horse with perfect boot fit.
My friend arrived a day earlier than I expected (I'm still confused as to what year it is) and my schedule and her jet-lag meant that we only had one evening for me to demonstrate the fine art of putting boots on; deciding if the fit was correct; how to figure out if the fit wasn't correct; and how to get the stupid boots off again if they were a tight fit (which is ideal... until you're trying to take them off).
Unfortunately, looking at the available hooves for this demonstration, it became apparent that keeping on top my trimming schedule over the Holidays and subsequent sickies hadn't been high on the agenda. All of the horses were long and all were in need of a trim. Hmm.
Being the easiest to trim (he doesn't fidget much), and having not put boots on him for a while (he's been growing out a rear foot abscess since October), Roo became our victim for the evening's entertainment.
I cleaned out his foot and carefully showed my friend how long he was, how his heels weren't supposed to look like that, how his toe needed to come back about half an inch, and how, yes, even thought he had a wonderful toe-callous, it wasn't close to being in the location it was supposed to be. It definitely became an exercise in "do as I say, not as I've done".
After trimming his first foot with a running commentary of what I was doing and why, I turned her loose with the rasp, the stand, and Roo's long toe on the second foot. Once the squeaking had subsided, I was able to guide her through the technique of reducing toe from the top - long vertical strokes perpendicular to the ground designed to whack off overgrowth.
Here Uno is demonstrating long toes, while I demonstrate the removal of them. Notice how I'm keeping the rasp perpendicular to the toe and rasping straight down towards the ground.
Her initial reaction was to try and shape the toe, but I explained that all she needed to do at this point was get rid of all the extra. I explained - as my farrier had explained to me years ago - the rasp is a two-handed tool and that using long strokes would remove more hoof than small, prissy up-n-down zips: you're not performing a manicure.
Working my way around the toe. The rasp is a two-handed tool.
How did Uno's toes get so long? He's been off since Thanksgiving so his feet haven't been getting the attention they need. Gloves prevent you rasping the skin off your knuckles when enthusiastically removing over-abundance of toe.
Once I was satisfied with the amount of toe she'd removed, I had her turn over his foot and work on it from the bottom.
There are few things more entertaining than watching a complete beginner trying to squeeze under a horse, with a foot between their knees, attempting to use an unaccustomed rasp in a competent manner. As anyone who's ever struggled to trim their own horse knows, when you're starting out you wonder how the heck anyone is capable of this. You can't even figure out how to get into the ludicrous contorted poses necessary to get the job done. Your body doesn't distort in that way, and the horse's leg won't bend in that manner either. Within about 30 seconds, your back is going into spasms and you lose all coordination and balance. And then you realise with dismay that you've only rasped one quarter of one foot.
This is all normal.
It takes a while for your body to learn hoof-trimming yoga (with such poses as "Horse Rips Foot Away" and "Can't Quite Get at That Overhanging Frog Flap") and learning to use the tools is a lot like learning to use chopsticks the first time - the food doesn't go quite where you expect it to.
After a good amount of laughter (not shared by Roo, who by this time wanted his supper), I guided my friend through taking the heels back, removing scraggly bits (technical term), and how to roll the edge of the hoof.
Keeping the rasp at the correct angle seems to be one of the things that is hardest for the beginner to get right - manipulating an alien tool while concentrating on what you're doing, how you're doing it, and whether or not you or the horse are about to fall over is tricky.
But at the end, we had a rasped foot. It wasn't perfect and there were a few things I went back and tidied up afterwards, but it was completely serviceable.
(Continued tomorrow)
-- Lucy Chaplin Trumbull Sierra Foothills, California
A couple of weeks ago, a friend visited from England. She has just decided to take her endurance horse barefoot and compete him in boots. It sounds like she has found a sympathetic trimmer who is interested in what she's doing, so her plan is to schedule him regularly to do the main trim, while she makes touch-ups in between. As far as I can tell hoof boots are still far from the norm in Britain, with most "professionals" convinced that having horses barefoot just won't work and advising their clients accordingly <wry face>.
Initially she picked my brain over the internet...
What Equipment Would She Need?
My List
A pair of gloves (v. v. important to avoid knuckle rasping)
A hoof pick (I like the ones with the bristle brush on the back)
A good rasp (blunt, rusty rasps are no fun and result in much puffing and frustration)
A sharp narrow-bladed hoof knife (wide-bladed ones are designed for draft horses as far as I can work out)
A hoof stand (this is a lot of money to invest in, but believe me, your life will be so much pleasanter with one than trying to do this without. Without you’ll be sad and tired and struggle)
A rubber mallet
What Boots Would She Need?
She was a little confused by the difference between Glue-Ons and Gloves. I explained that although they were essentially the same base-model, Gloves were what she would be using for conditioning and events because of how easy they were to use and quick to put on and take off. You'd only really use Glue-Ons if you were doing a 100 miler, a multi-day, or practising the gluing technique. Once those puppies are on, they aren't going anywhere without the application of some brute force and a wide-bladed screwdriver.
What Size Boots Would She Need?
I explained about measuring the foot accurately to figure out what size boot her horse would need and then I explained that Murphy's Law dictates that your horse's feet will never fall within the confines of the "correct" measurements for a specific boot size, so EasyCare came up with the "Fit Kit".
Say your horse's foot measures something close to a 0.5, but not quite according to the sizing chart. You order the Fit Kit for 0.5 and EasyCare will send you shells in sizes 1 - 0.5 - 0. You can spend a happy session with your horse pushing shells on, walking him around, taking them off and repeating the performance with the other sizes until you are satisfied with what size boot you think is the best fit.*
* this is often not the size you think it's going to be. Case in point, none of the Glove sizes were close to fitting my pony, Jackit's, feet on paper, but in reality once I figured out the right size, his boots don't seem to go anywhere.
To give you an idea of what I was working with - I have small hands. I was fairly convinced that no Glove size would work for him, but it turns out 00.5 and 00s fit him fine.
You get to keep the Fit Kit for 30 days because everyone knows the second a horse item arrives on the premises, it guarantees instant horrendous weather/sickness in human operator/sudden unexpected business travel.
Unfortunately, not living in the US, my friend doesn't have access to fit kits, so she had (hopefully) the correct size Gloves shipped to my house, and I also sent her home with a couple of old boots the next size up 'just in case'.
She was ready to move on to the next stages - basic trimming and boot fit.
(Continued next week)
-- Lucy Chaplin Trumbull Sierra Foothills, California
Pro - cras - ti - na - tion(proh-kras-tuh-ney-shuhn) - the act or habit of procrastinating, or putting off or delaying, especially something requiring immediate attention.
I'm sure nobody really needs the definition of the word procrastination spelled out, I know I don't - this blog was due two weeks ago! Everyone procrastinates sometimes, over 20% of people are chronic procrastinators. Did you know that procratination and perfectionism go hand in hand? Here are some reasons for procrastination:
Fear of Failure
Because we are too busy
Over-or under-estimating the degree of difficulty the task involves
Does any of this sound familiar on reasons why you have not tried to take your horse barefoot? There is so much information available today regarding natural horse care, using hoof boots and barefoot trimming, it can get overwhelming. EasyCare has a whole section of our website devoted to articles to help educate you and get you on your way.
Ways to overcome procrastition:
Get a buddy to do the barefoot transition with you.
Challenge your myths regarding shoeing and do some research.
Get a new attitude.
So, take a deep breath and dive in. Remember the worst form of procrastition is reading an article about it, feeling the guilt and not doing anything about it. (I will have to remember this when my next blog is due.)
Shari Murray
Customer Service
If you call the customer service help desk, you’ll probably get me on the phone! I process repairs, returns, credits and exchanges that come into EasyCare.
It's March and it's all about the luxurious new Easyboot Glove Back Country. Much of this month's newsletter is dedicated to the details of the latest addition to the EasyCare hoof boot lineup.
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