Bootmeister :: Natural Hoof Care Tips

But equally as defining were the results at Bryce Canyon: all Best Condition awards were won by horses with Easyboot Gloves and Glue-On boots:

• Garrett Ford and The Fury with Gloves
• Kevin Myers and Stoner with Gloves
• Dian Woodward and Stavire with Glue-Ons
• Dian Woodward and Halyva Night with Glue-Ons
• Christoph Schork and Mandy with Glue-Ons

All first places were won by Easyboot Glue-On booted horses as well. Furthermore, most of the days, there were 5 or more booted horses  among the top 10. Day 2 saw even placings one through six in Easyboot Glue-Ons and Gloves.

Although most riders still using traditional steel shoes, we are seeing again and again horses with protective horse boots in the winner's circle of top ten placings and BC winnings.
What are the reasons for the continuing success story?

First, it is the research and design placed in the boot by the EasyCare Staff. The new Glue-Ons and Gloves are half the weight of traditional steel shoes, facilitating the work of our horses tremendously. They provide unprecedented cushioning and sole protection. They are easy to apply. They are healthy for the hooves.



Because of excessive July and August rains, this year's trails were rockier than usual. Horses without good hoof protection were risking bruising of the soles. None of our booted horses  had any issues with that. The horses moved effortlessly and easily through the often rough trails.

Loosing a boot, however, could have put a damper on your day. As we approach fall and cooler and wetter conditions in many locations, this is a good time for some reminders in application of your boots.

To have success with your Glue-Ons, it is of great importance to apply utmost diligence in your gluing process:

• Select the proper size boot
• Trim away any flares in the hoof wall
• Eliminate any forging by facilitating quick breakover of the front hooves. (Long toes on  front and hind hooves could cause forging and potentially pull off front boots)
• Structure the hoof wall with the rasp
• Wire brush hoof wall and sole thoroughly
• Dry the hoof wall with a heat gun or hair dryer
• Avoid touching the inside of the boots with your bare hands (hands are always somewhat moist or oily and will prevent the glue from adhering properly to the boot)
• Always carry a spare Easyboot Glove with you.

When using Easyboot Gloves, check the 3 screws that hold the cuffs in place frequently. Through vibration these screws can loosen and can fall out. You may also use some lock tite to keep them in place at all times.



It is easy to get complacent and sometimes take shortcuts in your application of the boots. I hope these reminders will let you get the most out of your boots and enjoy your partnership with your horse.

Your Bootmeister

There are many reasons for that development, but the fact is that more and more riders and horse owners are now trimming their horses hooves without the help of professional hoof technicians and farriers. Protective horse boots are replacing traditional horse shoes in ever increasing numbers. The Glue-On horse hoof boots and Easyboot Gloves are being used more and more in all equestrian disciplines.

Besides acquiring the necessary knowledge and training for hoof trimming, the horse owner also needs to know what tools to get for starters. Looking through tool catalogs, a newcomer might get quickly overwhelmed.

Out of all the available tools, I've selected five that I consider essential for successful hoof trimming:



These five are a must. Without having all five available, do not even start trimming your horses hooves.

Hoof rasps come in a range of prices from $5.00 to $25.00; hoof knives from $3.00 to $75.00; nippers from $35.00 to $225.00. Like in many areas of the tool market, you get what you pay for. Do not buy any cheap tools: you are wasting your money. They will not work well, make life hard and sooner or later you will throw them out to get something that works. Believe me, I have been there and learned the hard, or I might say, the expensive way.

Get some good tools, GE nippers are arguably the best, depending on your hand size, get nippers between 12 and 14 in. 15 in are also available, but I would only recommend them if you have very large hands and long arms. SaveEdge rasps are a good value. Get a handle with it. Purchase a hoof knife that fits your hand: middle to upper price range will suffice here; there are a lot of good knives around. Before buying a hoof knife, spend several minutes holding it, feeling it. Carry it around the store for a while, mimic trimming movements to get a feel for it. It has to feel right in your hand.

The hoof jack is a one time investment, yes, somewhat pricey, but you have to have a hoof stand. The hoof jack is one of the best. It comes with a cradle as well, so it saves your back. You would be wise to get one right away, not after you suffered already for a year and your back is out. By then, you already will have spent more money than the hoof jack costs on body work, massage and chiropractic. The big advantage the Hoof Jack has over other hoof stands is the stability. It won't tip over if you have an unruly horse or one that constantly tries to pull the hoof away from you. Furthermore, you can stabilize it even more by placing your feet over the base. It is really solid then, no other hoof stand lets you do that.


These five tools are necessary to do good and effective hoof trimming. At the Global Endurance Training Center in Moab, we have been using and testing these tools for years and found them to be very useful and also sufficient for most hoof trims. They all have quality and they all last well. Let's say you invested $400 to $500. Now you need to take care of them to increase their life expectancy and usefulness.

Below are some maintenance tools that are inexpensive to acquire but will save you lots in the long run.


We have sharpening tools for your hoof knives, the Swissistor tool works the easiest. Chainsaw sharpening files are also popular, work really well to sharpen the curve of the hoof knife. Stones and metal files do not work as well for the curved tip.

Your rasp should always get stored in a piece of cloth or a protective sleeve. I like to use piece of irrigation pipe. It works great and doesn't cost more than a dime at the most.


A new rasp should last you for about 20 horses; let's say about 80 to 100 hooves. Provided you are following a few tips and tricks to extend the life of a rasp:

1. Always clean the hoof before rasping. The hoof below is in no shape to put your expensive rasp to work.


First use your hoof pick to clean as much as possible, then the wire brush to remove all sand and grit.


Now the hoof is ready for using the nippers or the rasp.


2. Use your nippers more than your rasp. It is easier and time saving.

3. Use the whole rasp. Too many people have a tendency making short strokes, make long and smooth strokes.

4. Use the rasp in a singe direction. No back and forth scrubbing, but instead in the forward cutting way, the way the rasp pattern is designed to cut. Look at the rasp so you understand the way it cuts.

5.When switching from using the nippers to the rasps, don't just toss your tools around on the ground. Place them carefully on a soft towel or board. You can also use the magnets of your hoof jack to lean the tools against when not using them.

6. After finishing your trim, brush your rasp clean with a non metal brush. Wire brushes will dull the rasp. Then store them in a dry environment. Rust will shorten their life.

7. Have all your tools protected when in transport. Don't let them bounce around in a box.


A word on the nippers: good nippers can last you many years. The same rules apply for protection as with the rasps. Don't use them on a dirty hoof, treat them with great care and use some oil or WD 40 to keep them protected from moisture. Rasps should not be oiled, however, it compromises the cutting and makes them collect dirt. Even when you take good care of your nippers, eventually they will dull. You can send it in to have it refurbished. Do not attempt to sharpen the nippers yourself. You will end up ruining them. Guaranteed. It takes great skill and knowledge to sharpen nippers. There are also mail-to services available to sharpen your rasp, but to make it cost effective with shipping, you should mail in several rasps together.

After you are done with your trim, wrap your nippers in a sleeve or protective cloth piece.


Hope these tips will help you getting most out of your investment.

Till the next time,

Your Bootmeister

After returning from Tevis, we were soon on the road again to Danville, Illinois for the final Selection Trial where the last ten were to be selected to represent the USA at the upcoming World Equestrian Games in Kentucky. 29 riders and 33 horses were still vying for a spot on the team. I took two horses, Stars Aflame and TC Mounshine.

Illinois welcomed the riders with swarms of extra large horse flies, over 90% humidity and temps between 90 and 103 F. The western horses were drenched wet just standing tied to the trailer. Garrett Ford and Kevin Myers prepared Easyboot Glue-Ons for us that were giving us more grip on the highly anticipated wet grass and mud.


The additional grooves provided better traction on the course. Shortly after the test run started, the sky opened up with torrential rain and turned the trails into slippery mud in no time. We were sure glad to have the added profile on the sole of our protective horse boots.

Tennessee Mahoney rode TC Mounshine and I rode Stars Aflame. Both horses were equipped with the Easyboot Glue-Ons shown above. Sean Mahoney and Christina Long crewed for us. A big Thank You goes out to them for their effort and help.
 
Tennessee did an excellent job riding TC Mounshine to the end of the test trial, but I had to call it quits after 42 miles. On that day, Stars Aflame had more difficulty to adjust to the hot and humid climate. In the end, however, neither one of my horses were selected to go to Kentucky.

I left the next day and drove about 1,000 miles to meet up with Tennessee and Sean at their home near Ft. Collins, Co. After some short discussions, we glued Easyboot Glue-Ons on a couple of horses, Just Magnum for Tennessee and Asamaan, aka Mandy, whom I also had taken with me to Illinois. I wanted to have a horse to ride in some local rides there, in case I was to be selected and were to stay in the Midwest till the WEG in September.

After a short discussion with Dian, Tennessee and Sean we decided to attend the two-day Horse and Rider event near Glenwood Springs, Colorado. After a six hour drive, we arrived at base camp at 10.000 ft elevation way up in the Rockies. Dian and Tarnia Kittel from Australia met us there with additional horses they had transported from Moab.

As often happens at base camp, riders see our booted horses and are curious about the Glue-On Easyboots and Easyboot Gloves and want to learn. So most of the time I'm teaching ad hoc mini clinics on how to trim hooves and glue on boots or use Easyboot Gloves. So it happened again at this ride.


I also demonstrated removal of the Easyboot Glue-Ons after the second day of the event. Many interested riders still have questions about proper Glue-On boot removal. I demonstrated how a large flat-headed screwdriver is placed between the hoof wall and the boot, then tapped with a rubber mallet to separate the boot from the wall until all the bond is loosened. After picking up the horses hoof, the screwdriver is then inserted on the distal side between the boot and hoof and the boot carefully pried off. It is an easy procedure, but it helps if you watch someone do it a couple of times. Next time you see me at a ride, I'll gladly give you a demonstration after the last day of the ride. I'll be at Bryce Canyon 5-Day Pioneer Event next.

The trail at Horse & Rider was very challenging: lots of elevation gain and loss. The whole trail was at an elevation between 9,500 and 11,400 ft. The horses were definitely challenged. I had ridden Mandy quite a bit during the last 6 months. She is fit, but she exceeded my expectations big time. In spite of traveling with me to Illinois, being exposed to severe attacks by flies and hot temperatures and extreme humidity, then traveling back to Colorado in a marathon drive, she performed flawlessly, won the ride and received BC. Tarnia Kittel rode Kat, the mare who had the unwanted adventure at Tevis when she fell of the trail below Dead Wood, and we both tied for first.

On day two, I rode DWA Powerball to a first place finish. Dian had brought him for me from Moab. Tarnia Kittel was second on our horse Taj Rai Hasan, aka Husky. Tennessee Mahoney received BC on Khyber.


Overall it was another big success for the Easyboot Glue-Ons. Booted horses finished in the top two places and received BCs both days. What more can you ask for? The boots will help you succeed. No doubt about it.

So long,

Your Bootmeister 

Tevis is right around the corner and the Global Endurance Training Center staff is busy getting the horses ready and fine-tuned for the big event. GETC is planning on entering five horses.

This is not the time to condition horses for Tevis: it's too late for that. What's important is excellent nutrition, daily checking for soundness, stretching, easy work-outs, keeping muscles and joints supple and loose. Cross training comes in handy, short dressage sessions in the arena, short speed pick ups to trigger fast twitch muscle cells, some hill work. And, swimming the horses!

We are lucky here in Moab during the summer. Temperatures are nice and warm and we have lakes close by with pleasant water temperatures. It is a good time of year to take horses for a swim. Some horses just love it, others don't care too much for the wet element. Nevertheless, swimming is an excellent strength builder and cardiovascular exercise. An additional benefit: the joints are saved: there is no impact whatsoever on the joints.

During this time we try to ride the horses bare as much as possible. However, we are also cautious not to risk any stone bruising. The Easyboot Gloves are the ideal hoof protection during the last few days before the Tevis.

For this ride/swim workout, we chose to wrap athletic tape around the horses hooves to minimize sand collection inside the boot. We have to travel for five miles through deep sand before reaching the lake.



Three horses ready for action. The white athletic tape is clearly visible.


We arrive at the lake after crossing several creeks.


After removing the saddles, we lead the horses into the lake.


Then the fun begins.


You can swim with them, make circles, tail, hover on top of them, splash and finally, ride out of the lake bareback.


It's a lot of fun, great workout and nice change from the normal workout routine.


We swam for quite a while with the Gloves, they all stayed on. We rode back through deep sand again. I was curious to see how much sand we had collected. After pulling the protective horse boots, here are the results:


After riding through deep sand, crossing creeks, swimming in lake, riding through deep sand again, that's all the sand we had accumulated in the boots. Hardly anything. We knew the boots were great, but this was one of the toughest test for the boots. And they passed the test with flying colors.

We will use Easyboot Glue-Ons for Tevis, but we are absolutely confident that the Gloves would work great as well. The bog and the American River won't be a problem when riding with Gloves. They proved to be sand, mud and swim gloves!

We posted a swim video on Facebook. You can see it here.

So long,

Your Bootmeister

We've all seen it: the horse with sensitive sole, the tender footed horse that gives, sometimes almost collapses when stepping on a rock. There can be a variety of causes for sensitive soles.

- Excess moisture in the hoof. An average hoof sole should have about a 33% moisture content. With lots of rain and on soft or wet ground this percentage can increase substantially, which then softens the sole and increases sensitivity.
- Knife-happy trimming. Excess paring of the sole beyond removing flaky dead sole can increase sole sensitivity.
- Dropped soles and flat soles. Soles with little concavity will be more sensitive to rocks.
- Bruised soles are sensitive. Horses exposed to too many rocks without proper toughening of the soles.
- Genetic. Often flat soles and thin soles are inherited. Examine the hooves of dam and sire before breeding.

Be that as it may, there are steps we can take to mitigate tender soles.

- Keep the horse in dry corrals with sand or small pebbles.
- Apply daily iodine or turpentine solutions to the soles.
- Pack the soles with Venice Turpentine or Hoof Sole Pack, then glue the boots on.
- Follow the steps for transitioning to barefoot as outlined in the blogs of Kevin Myers, "Bootlegging".


This horse had sheared the bars off. He was extremely sensitive, the sole was very thin.

I applied a layer of Sole Pack and glued a Glue-On EasyCare boot. He was immediately more comfortable.


At last week's Strawberry Fields endurance event we all encountered a lot of rocks. In spite of having Glue-on boots and Easyboot Gloves on all our horses, after the first day, one of the horses with already sensitive soles was really sore when stepping on rocks. The horse was otherwise sound and in good shape. What to do?

We wanted to start the horse, but had to come up with a solution. That's when the Bootmeister put on his creative hat and started thinking. What if we double boot this horse, would that work? With nothing to lose, I gave it a try.

First, I rasped off the front of the existing glue-on boot and beveled the bottom edges around the existing boot.


With the help of a Hoof Jack, I took the dorsal wall of the existing boot all the way down to the hoof wall. The sandals are not mine, in case you are wondering whether I work with sandals around horses. Another rider was watching my work.


I then selected a pair of Glue-on boots one full size bigger than the old one, the horse had a #1, I selected a #2. A #2.5 would have worked even better. After cutting the walls of the new glue ons flush with the bottom, I fitted it so both boots were even in the heels.


After roughening up the existing boots outer layer and cleaning it with a wire brush, I applied Vettec Adhere to the second pair of boots inside walls and glued them on.


The heels of both boots are flush: this is really important for heel support. The second pair of boot should not be shorter than the original one, it could be a bit longer for better heel support. This photo was taken after the 50 mile ride.

Before the second boot was applied, the horse was very tender on the pre ride trot out. We could not have started her. With the double boot system, she traveled comfortably over the whole 50 miles, part of which was a 12 mile gravel downhill road and lots of rocks over the climb and descent to over 10,000 ft. The horse finished 2nd, never missed a beat and showed sound for the BC judging.

This is not an ideal situation, the horse is elevated in front by about an inch, but it can save the bacon if needed. Another trick up your sleeve. One Glue on boot weighs half as much as a steel shoe. So with two glue ons, the horse still only carries the same weight as with a steel shoe. Not bad at all.

With all the different EasyCare boots available, we can really solve problems when we put our heads together. Let's face it, there is nothing out there on the hoof protection market worldwide, that comes even close to the wide variety of boots and hoof protection products made available to the riders by EasyCare, Inc. A big Thanks to Garrett Ford and all the EasyCare staff for providing so much education and such great products for horse and rider in all equestrian disciplines.

Success through Learning, that motto was proven true again last week.

As a parting shot, Double Zell at 10,300 ft on day 3 of Strawberry ride. Double Zell won on day two and three, back to back, wearing the same Glue-on Boots. He was not foot sore.


For more detail on the results of the 2010 Strawberry Fields four-day endurance event day ride, visit our blog at www.globalendurance.com.

So long,

Your Bootmeister

The Hoof Care Clinic held in Oreana last weekend by your Bootmeister and sponsored by EasyCare, Global Endurance and Vettec was huge success. In spite of inclement weather, the turnout was impressive. There was live a demonstration on trimming, tool usage and Easyboot Glue-on procedure and there were lots of great questions.

Global Endurance Center provided drinks and refreshments for all the clinic participants. There were lots of power drinks and electrolyte supplements available for everybody.


Christoph explained the Glue-On boot. He emphasized the light weight of the new hoof protection on the market and how it is affecting horses' performance. A scale was set up so everybody could weigh steel shoes, plastic shoes and EasyCare boots and compare them. A Glue-On Boot weighs half that of a steel shoe of the same size. That is the equivalent of a horse shod with steel carrying 50 lbs more on it's back.

He went on to explain why flares need to get removed and how laid over bars can cause sole bruising. Notice the red bruise in the heel area in the photo below.


During the trimming section of the clinic Christoph introduced the Merlin, an innovative trimming power tool that makes hoof trimming a piece of cake.


After trimming several hooves using traditional methods, it was time to glue on boots.  Christoph likes to set the selected boots out and apply Goober Glue first in all boots. He has found that it is sufficient to add Goober Glue in the shape of the frog into the sole of the boot. That provides good support for the frog and seals the heel part of the boot so no debris or water can enter. Any excess glue will get pushed out the heel and frog area and can be removed.


Christoph explained that Adhere and Soleguard have the same adhesive strength for gluing on boots. He has tested them and can tell no difference in bonding to the hoof. However, if the outside humidity is high and/or the hoof has some residual moisture retained, he suggests Soleguard because it is more forgiving to a little moisture than Adhere. With Adhere, the boot and hoof have to be absolutely dry. A heat gun or similar drying device is a must if any moisture is present. Never take any short cuts, though: a clean and dry hoof is a must for success.

After the clinic, Christoph glued on a few more boots for some riders. Doug Swingley from Montana supported him. A big "Thank You" goes out to him. 

At the end of the clinic, there was a prize drawing for all the participants. Prizes were donated by EasyCare, Vettec, Equiflex and Global Endurance Training Center included logbooks, saddle bags, hoof picks, Glue-On boots and Gloves, Vettec Adhere, Soleguard and Equi-Pak Sore No More products and insulated water bottles for the saddles.

After vetting in for the next day's ride, it was time for some R&R and socializing. Vettec sponsored the Wine and Cheese Party and it was enjoyed by all the riders.


If you missed the clinic, check back regularly with the EasyCare Blog or event schedule. We'll have more fun events planned throughout the riding season.

If you would like more information on trimming techniques and the Merlin, please contact me using the comments section of this blog. More detailed information on trimming and the Merlin power trimming tool is available on the latest post on the Global Endurance Center blog at www.globalendurance.com.

So long,

Your Bootmeister

In the last three posts we examined the different reasons as to why hoof capsules get stressed and distorted. In today's final instalment we conclude with a discussion about the sole and its function. We also look at the inevitable consequences of stress created by hoof capsule distortions.

The sole is designed to protect and cushion sensitive structures of the hoof including the coffin bone. The actual live sole thickness averages around 3/8th of an inch. On top, or one might say below it, one should encounter callous or dead sole. The dead sole protects the live sole from the impact of rocks and from bacteria.

Do flat-footed horses have thinner soles? That question is often asked.

A thin sole can be flat or very concave. The difference between a flat sole and a concave sole is merely that the coffin bone sits higher in the hoof capsule and is therefore better protected. While a flat-footed horse with the same sole thickness might flinch every time he steps on a pepple, a concave hoof will have additional space where the rocks will touch the  sole to a lesser degree and with less force. Flat-footed hooves are mostly genetic in the beginning; barefoot trimming and barefoot riding can help somewhat to create little more concavity in the hoof. But for the most part each horse's hoof concavity is genetically predisposed and will remain the same throughout a horse's life.

Conversely, a concave hoof may very well develop into a flat hoof if serious white line destruction exists or if the horse founders or if a trimmer is knife-happy and trims the sole too thin. Then the coffin bone will not receive enough protection and resistance and it will drop within the hoof capsule. A concave hoof can never get achieved by paring out more sole to create the optical appearance of concavity. Quite the contrary: the sole will drop even more because it does not have enough strength and substance to withstand the downward pressure exerted by the coffin bone.

So the question might be asked: does it just seem that flat-footed horses experience more bacterial infection, thrush, white line disease and fungi invasion? To find the answer, let's look at the modus operandi of the invaders.

Bacteria and fungi are everywhere. Without them there would be no life on earth. Normally they are part of the ecosystem and cause no problems unless there is a systemic imbalance and external disruption, which can be a scenario where the horse is nutritionally deficient and then suffers a stone bruise. Flat footed horses are just more prone to suffer stone bruises. So as soon as there is a weak spot in the system, in our case the hoof, the hostile invasion can begin in earnest.


Bacterial invasion everywhere: notice the white line destruction. This hoof could have a false sole with fungal infection below it.


Another example of a hoof suffering of severe bacterial and fungal attack because of HCD. This is an inevitable and predictable consequence of HCD.

After a trim the hoof looks better but the weakened structures are still clearly visible.


Favorable conditions for fungal and bacterial infections:

After trimming the stressed hoof, thoroughly clean all the crevices with a wire brush. Dry them well, then apply anti fungal solutions with a cotton swab. Make sure the solution goes as deep as possible into the openings, otherwise surface tension of the medication will often prevent deep penetration and untreated pockets will remain.





After careful application of anti fungal and antibacterial remedies, you then may use treatments like Sole Pack, Venice Turpentine or Pine Tar and push it deep into the crevasses  to prevent dirt and new bacteria to enter again, before turning the horse out or applying boots. These dense and high viscous materials stick very well in the damaged fissures.

At Global Endurance Training Center we have tested various anti fungal and hoof care products on the market for several years now. For a more detailed report of our findings, visit our blog on our website.

This concludes my four part series on HCD. Future postings will address case studies and other helpful tips and observations which I have collected over the years.

Ride fast or slow, but always enjoy every moment on your horse. Life is just too short not to.

So long,

The Bootmeister

After last year's successful hoof care clinic in Oreana, Idaho, The Bootmeister will conduct another educational seminar at the Fandango Pioneer ride in southwest Idaho.


Christoph will teach his hoof care clinic on Thursday, May 27th from 1 pm untill 4 pm. He will introduce new techniques on barefoot trimming, show you the newest research and developments on the hoof protection market and will demonstrate how to glue on EasyCare boots as well as how to use the Easyboot Gloves with ease. Christoph Schork

The GETC Team, Christoph and Dian, attended the 5 day Mt Carmel XP ride in southern Utah. Managed by Dave Nicholson, the "Duck", this ride has always been one of our favorites. The scenery is outstanding and the weather mostly beautiful. This year it was just about perfect.

The Duck added 2 days to this formerly 3 day ride. The trails went through beautiful red rocks, stunning canyons, sand dunes and washes and on two days up to over 10.000 feet elevation. As always, the Nicholson family did an outstanding job organizing and managing this event.

What made this ride such a success was the team work. Riders helped each other wherever they could and everybody had a lot of fun together. Staff, vets, volunteers and riders: all were in sync. A truly great atmosphere prevailed everyday on the trail and in camp.


An additional bonus for the riders was the presence of the EasyCare support team. Kevin Waters, Kevin Myers and I were providing advice and help to many riders. Some riders were curious and just asked questions about the new Glue-Ons and the Easyboot Gloves. But many riders wanted to ride with the boots. Some had made prior arrangements and scheduled hoof trimming and booting in advance, some just brought their horses to our EasyCare/GETC camp to get them booted up. The Kevins and I spent every afternoon gluing on boots. All in all, we glued on 52 boots. A lot of hooves also needed trimming, so we did have our work cut out after every day's ride. On two days, we worked untill after dark.

In the end, we had a lot of happy customers and smiling faces. Checking horses that did all 5 days in boots, riders were amazed to see how well the boots held up through all kind of footing and terrain, water, sand, some snow, rocks, you name it. The seal of the Easycare Glue ons was still totally intact after 250 miles. Astounding! And, one could hardly see any wear on the bottom of the boot. These boots really hold up and last for hundreds of miles.

All in all, the success story of the Easyboot Gloves and Glue-ons continues. And they played the lead role at Mt Carmel last week.

For more results on the Mt Carmel ride, you can also visit the Global Endurance Training Center blog at www.globalendurance.com.

Christoph Schork
 

During the last two discussions on hoof capsule distortions, we looked at flares and high/low syndromes and clubfeet. Today, we want to examine the medial/lateral balance in more detail.

Look at the picture below:

Horse A



Question: which side of the hoof will grow more?
- the inside (medial)
- the outside (lateral)
- both sides grow evenly
- depends on how the horse is moving in a trot and canter

Now let's look at horse B:



Which side will grow more?
- inside (medial)
- outside (lateral)
- both sides grow evenly
- depends on how the horse is moving in a trot and canter

During the last posts we discussed that a hoof will follow the path of least resistance, that means, it will grow more on that side that receives less pressure. Horse A has a very narrow stance, the legs are inside a plum line drawn from the point of the shoulder. The outside hoof wall receives more pressure than the medial side. Therefore the medial or inside hoof wall will grow more.

Horse B has a wide stance. The plum line from the shoulders falls to the inside of the horse's legs. More pressure is therefore placed on the inside of the hoof. The outside or lateral side will grow more. If you need to double check, simulate the stance with your own feet: wide stance and narrow stance, where do you feel more or less pressure?

If you checked  the last answer as correct, consider the following. It is correct that most horses will travel differently in a trot and canter than while standing in a stall or pasture. However, what is the time element involved here? No matter how much you train your horse, it will always stand many more hours than working. Let's say, you work your horse 4 hours every day. That is a lot and hardly anybody will do that day in day out. That would leave 20 hours a day where the horse will stand or slowly walk. Therefore, the horses hooves will grow more the way it is standing, that is a 6:1 ratio in this case. So, the way a horse moves, in regards to hoof wall growth, will have a comparably small impact.

The horse's conformation is the main determining factor on medial/lateral hoof growth. Were we to leave things as they happen, in both examples shown above, with time, the hoof capsule would distort more and more, the coronet band pushed higher and higher on one side till the famous straw breaks the camel's back and we encounter quarter cracks and sheared heels. It is of utmost importance that both sides of the hoof will be trimmed evenly at each trimming interval. Where there is more growth, more hoof wall needs to get trimmed.

You can measure the sides of each hoof with a caliper or a measuring tape. Watch for a pushed up and arched coronet band as a sure sign of excess pressure through excess hoof wall growth.



Observe the arched coronet band and arched stress lines in the hoof wall: a sign of imbalance here. This side of the hoof grew more and is experiencing stress. This side needs to get trimmed more; maybe it should even get floated. That can be done before using any Easyboot Gloves or Glue-On boots.

When floating one side of the hoof, you are shortening it sufficiently so that the opposite side is bearing more pressure for the time being. Within a relatively short period of time, sometimes as little as an hour, the coronet band will relax and the hoof can balance itself. This process will be happening faster if the hoof is relatively soft in texture, contains a lot of moisture, and the horse is placed on a hard surface. Hard and dry hooves will require more time.

An additional tool available for a trained Hoof Care Technician is the T square. It can give valuable information. However, a word of caution: it is not an  absolute indicator of a balanced hoof and of medial/lateral balance. If you have a hoof angle deviation it could give you an incorrect answer. Use it only as a cross reference tool.



Notice the longer hoof wall on the right side, in this case.

That's it for today.

For information and education regarding lower leg conformation and advice for selecting an endurance prospect, visit the Global Endurance Training Center website and blog. For additional resources on hoof protection and products to manage the barefoot hoof, visit the EasyCare website.

Have fun, ride fast or slow, but always enjoy life and learning!

Your Bootmeister

EasyCare hoof boots celebrated another success at the Antelope Island 2 Day Ride in Utah on April 17th and 18th. Christoph Schork, Dian Woodward and Debbi Whorf took the top three finishing places on both days. All horses are owned by Global Endurance Training Center in Moab and all were equipped with Easyboot Glue-Ons. Dian also won BC on day one.

The GETC team credits much of their success to the Easyboot Glue-Ons!

Submitted by The Bootmeister

Today we want to examine dorsal hoof capsule distortions (HCD), high and low syndromes and club feet. All dorsal HCD will again display flares, this time just dorsally. And flares are a sign of improper loading. You may observe a dished hoof or simply a flare at the bottom third of the hoof. 


This hoof is placed on a Hoof Jack. Notice the stress lines in the hoof wall, caused by compression.

Now, let's take a look why dorsal flares happen in the first place. Most of the time, you only see these flares on one of the front hooves. The other one will show signs of a long toe and low heels, often underrun or crushed.

Hoof growth follows the path of least resistance. That means that any hoof will grow more where there is less pressure and less where there is more.  A horse with one of his front feet ahead of his shoulders will place more pressure over the heels, therefore less growth will occur there. At the same time, the toe bears minimal weight, hence the toe grows more (long).

The other leg is place behind the shoulder, therefore more pressure is placed on the toe, so we are not seeing  much growth there, less pressure or no weight is placed over the heel, therefore a lot of heel growth and high heels will result.


Changing the feeding environment can help mitigating the high/low syndrome.

For the rider, a horse with this issue will always favor the lead with the lower angled hoof leg. This leg has generally more strength, the shoulder will be more developed. It's the rider's responsibility to train the weaker shoulder/leg by posting on that side in a trot and using the weaker leg (that is the one with the higher heel) as the leading leg in the canter.

In extreme cases, the dished/flared hoof can develop into a club foot. Club feet vary in severity. Proper management as outlined above, together with frequent trimming, can reduce a clubfoot with time. A true clubfoot, though, one where the coffin bone is rotated downward, cannot be changed. These clubfeet are mostly hereditary and horses with this conformation have soundness issues and should not be bred.


Another HCD is the dorsal hoof wall thickening, or bull-nosed foot. It displays a convex dorsal hoof wall. In extreme cases, the distal phalanx is rotated upward at the toe, heels may be crushed. It can often be observed in horses that land heavy on the heels, thus exerting excess pressure on the coffin bone, which in turn pushes upward inside the hoof capsule. Steel horse shoes often compound that problem. These hoof wall thickenings need to be removed.

A couple of examples are below:



After dressing down the bull-nose:



Removing all hoof capsule distortions is crucial to your success with Easy Boots for Horses. Regardless of your preference, Glue-on boots or Gloves, your horse hoof trimming needs to result in straight walls. Otherwise you might have problems with proper fit, compromised seal and hoof glue adhesion.

Till the next time!

Your Bootmeister

This is the first issue in a mini series on hoof capsule distortions, short HCD.

During these blogs, we'll examine the reasons why the occur, how we identify them, what we can do to correct them, which horse hoof trimming to apply and finally, how the glue on Horseshoes can help in the whole process.

Today we want to look at hoof wall flares. Flare can occur for a variety of reasons. Some are:

1. The horse's leg is not centered over the hoof.
2. The horse is narrow or wide based
3. Hooves are turned in or out
4. Shelly hoof wall
5. Bacterial invasion in laminae
6. Inflammation of laminae
7. Trimming intervals are too long.

As we see, there are a variety of reasons for flares. The common denominator for flares is simply: improper loading.

Flares are created by stretching and tearing of horn tubules. With enough stress through stretching, the laminae cannot take the stress and begin to tear. Bacteria then invade, further weakening the laminae. In a flared hoof, the energy of loading will be transferred obliquely across the horn tubules, instead of in line with the tubules. A flared hoof wall has a very limited amount of strength. It cannot function properly in the way of absorbing concussion, storing and releasing energy. In fact, the longer we leave flares, the greater the potential damage with bacterial infection, followed by the destruction of the laminae.

What can we do about it? Obviously we cannot change the conformation of our horses. Some horses are always prone to develop flares. However, we can help by shortening trimming intervals, applying barefoot trimming methods, bevelling the hoof wall after a trim and paying close attention to the medial/lateral balance.

Flares need to be removed by top dressing the hoof wall. Most farriers and hoof care practitioners follow the rule of thumb of not removing more than half the thickness of the hoof wall. Farriers want enough hoof wall left to hold the nails and clinches. There is also an argument that the hoof capsule is weakened by removing more than half the thickness of the hoof wall and therefore cannot not support the load anymore.That makes some sense, but doesn't solve the problem. We still have hoof wall separation and we still have a weakened hoof wall. It's not the thickness of the hoof wall that we are concerned with, much more important is the health of the laminae. With a weakened laminae, it doesn't matter how thick your hoof wall is, the hoof capsule won't be able to support the loading.

I believe in rasping all the flares off, even if I have to take it down to the white line at the quarters. Thus the hoof wall is now straight and is allowed to regrow. The stress is removed, the laminae can heal. Best to use a Hoof Jack for the rasping. Much easier on your back.

Now we are coming to the essence of it all; Protective Horse Boots.

The EasyCare Glue Ons are like a hoof capsule reinforcement. It almost doesn't matter how thin the hoof wall might be at the quarters or dorsally, the Glue ons, together with the glue create an additional artificial layer of a hoof wall, strengthening the thinner areas and holding the hoof capsule together. There might be uneven loading, the hoof might load more medial or more distal, the Glue on Horseshoes mitigate this problem  tremendously. Since using glue on horse shoes, I have seen a remarkable reduction in flares. Laminaes are healthier, no bacterial invasion through the nail holes anymore.

Below are some images of flares.




That's it for today. Next time, we are discussing dorsal HCD

So long,

Your Bootmeister